Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Merrill Bitter, Stuart Ruckman, 1987
Page Views: 157 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 4, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

“Another Bitter tribute to RP’s and loved ones,” begins the description of this route in the Ruckmans’ 1998 guide. The first piece was originally a fixed Lost Arrow, now 30 years old and rusted. With Merrill’s consent, a nice fat stainless 3/8” bolt now backs it up (the pin is there and likely will eventually fall out -- see the photo on the Trail of Tiers page). Still R, though – the next pro is real thin (think RPs and the smallest of micro cams) and if they blow, you’ll risk landing in the shale-toothed gully that you stem across to start the climb. Truly a testament to Merrill’s boldness – leading it from the ground up, he launched off on overhanging quartzite armed with 1980s gear (no offsets or microcams), knowing he would be confronting infrequent protection and questionable rock. (Most of the new lines in Higher Education have required substantial top-rope cleaning to be passable.) Although the route has received a few hours of recent cleaning, expect some remaining minor choss.

To start, figure out how to clip the new bolt then commit to the seam system above, which eventually widens into an obvious flaring, overhanging hand crack. New chains are up and left.

Location

Follow the approach for Trail of Tiers. Dr. Luval Goes to Harvard starts about 10 feet up the shale-toothed gully -- the new bolt should be obvious.

Protection

One set of brass or steel nuts (offsets useful), stoppers, a double set of microcams, including the tiniest, and a single set of Camalots from .5 (purple) to 3 (blue) should do it. Lower/rap from chains (also added with M's consent.)

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