PRINT: Rock Climb Grading on a Curve, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Grading on a Curve

5.11a/b, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 16 votes
FA: JS, John Fowler, May 2017
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Gully of Higher… > Higher Education Ridg…

Description

Grading on a Curve is the longest route on Higher Education Ridge, and if it weren’t for an easy section in the middle and some suspect rock at top, would warrant three stars. (Yeah, I gave it three stars so you might consider trying it.) Climb Academia Nut’s hand crack to its top then stretch right to clip the first bolt. Puzzle through the moves (there’s a reason the bolt is where it is) to get established at the right edge of an obvious horizontal crack, get in a good cam, then climb more or less straight up past 8 more bolts to the top of the ridge. The horizontal crack sometimes seeps and may be frequented by wasps, but other than using it for pro, it is completely avoided -- at least if you do it the "right" way.

Location

See Academia Nut.

Protection

Draws and two to three hand-sized cams (Nos. 2-3 Camalots) should do it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Clipping the first bolt.

Allen in the business.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tenesmus

The grading curve depends greatly on your ability to read BCC rock.
Sooo many holds but you have to figure out which ones are trick questions and which ones are crimp-jugs. I vote for no tick marks to keep the grade honest.

This is a 3-star climb. Don't blow the bonus question crux at the end. Your belayer won't be able to see you but will definitely need to keep slack to a minimum as you go for the finish. Its safe so plan out a soft catch but small belay loop to ease the anxiety of the leader.

If you're a chicken like me, you can also use a #3 high in the initial handcrack, then back clean it after you clip the first bolt. Finally, traversing near the handcrack to get to the second bolt is unique for BCC and fun for all of the three or four ways you could do it. Aug 21, 2017

Cherie Yoon

What a fun route! I used #2 cam before clipping the first bolt, then used it again to protect the traverse right after. It may not be necessary for some people but it was nice to have it and I back cleaned them to avoid the rope drag later. There were so many holds but most of them were the facing the wrong way. The crux was to find the right one before you get tired. LOL. Apr 18, 2021

Santiago Monleon
Salt Lake City

5.11a

Don't know why you wouldn't use the crack above the first bolt, it is right in the path of the route. Seems completely contrived to not use it, especially if you are placing gear into it. Without using it I imagine this route is a lot harder. I felt it wasn't any harder than Pop Quiz to the right, in fact the crux of Pop Quiz is definitely harder to read than anything on this route. Still a solid 11a route, highly recommend it! Cool crux at the 1-3 bolt, into a 5.7 chossy section, into the crux of the route near the chains with some awesome movement! Jun 20, 2023

Russ Keane
Salt Lake

5.10d

I think this is 11a/b if you go low across the first bolt, but if you stay high & left and use the crack to get across, it's 10d. (Ultimately people will tend to use the easier way). Great climb overall- The sequence higher up to gain the chains is amazing! Jun 28, 2023