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Routes in Flying Raptor's Area

Apodidae Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird of Pray T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird of Prey. S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushtit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Carrion Pillar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falco S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Eyrie of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manakin Dance S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merlin S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Primary Feathers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rapere S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Titmouse S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wing's Leading Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roy Suggett & George Foster
Page Views: 165 total, 30/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 4, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This two-pitch route is in the “S” shape of a Flamingo’s neck. Like most pink flamingos-animate or inanimate and wherever they appear-they make a statement. This line does the same and follows the best rock and more-or-less stays with the overhanging arete. The anchor is also above both a possible trad and sport lines which looks significantly harder but on great rock. Feel free to set these up using the anchor and high bolts. You are welcomed to them. The Pink Flamingo however, stays left on the arete with more moderate climbing before turning right to the anchor that would cover the future more difficult projects below.

PI - 25 feet
Start with your back to Kestrel Tower and have the leader muscle up the short one bolt chimney to the large ledge with two bolts and a chain. The second will no longer give you crap about your groveling in the chimney after they join you atop this comfortable ledge. This, like most chimneys, is awkward and goes about 5.9.

PII - 65 feet
Keep the belayer at the anchor where more protection is afforded from any unpredicted rock fall and send the stronger leader up the face at the south end of the ledge. Clip the first bolt long. The second clip is up and left toward a notch in the arete. Mantle atop the blocky cut out in the arete and place a BD .4 here clipped long. The next moves are a sketchy traverse toward an awkward side pull. Move up a bit to a better stance and clip another bolt long prior to reaching far right and pulling your gear and straightening your line. More side pulls will get you to the fourth bolt where a 4’ runner would help. Up and right back to the arete through thin edging and arete climbing. Cross over to the high face above and work right and up to the anchor or clip here and top out in only a few moves. There seems to be two cruxes. Both in the upper half of this pitch, each a different kind of problem and each in the high 10s.

Location

Just climber's left from Bird of Prey and in front of Kestrel Tower.

Protection

Active- BD .4 X 1

QDs X 5

Two ft. runners X 3

Four ft. runner X 1

Anchor- Chain and a quicklink on two bolts.

Rope- This can be done in one pitch IF you use a 70 m rope AND the leader frees
the first pitch. Otherwise, if done in two pitches, you can use a 60 m
rope but must rap twice.

Photos

Roy Suggett  
 
Even though a thoughtful extension of clips is needed to eliminate rope drag, I think folks will enjoy this one. Jul 4, 2017