Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,300 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jul 4, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up slabby steps with a crack system, trending left slightly to a bolt. At a bulge, break through (pin) the crux, reaching a steep slab with a serious runout move to pass. Clip the next bolt and run it out for 10’ to easy holds that initiate a large corner.  Alternatively, after the Piton (can be backed up with a nut), move on good holds to a crack that angles up and right.   A red #1 cam cam protect you this crack.  Work through this sequence until passing the mid station rap anchor.  Trend left to the corner.   that bit solved, the pro is good to the anchor.

For pitch two, work up bulging arete and up pleasant clean rock with an ever-expanding view to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor.

The bludge can be lead at 5.8ish directly through the finger sized crack.  The actual route uses good but less obvious holds right of this obvious crack.  

Location

About 100' right of the private property boundary where the approach trail reaches the cliff. Once at the cliff, go right, around the small obstructing buttress, then look for an opening in the tree canopy with a view to a high arete.

Protection

As of September 2020, two stainless bolts were added to this route by unknown person.   These greatly change the boldness of this route.   The first bolt protects the initial move about 20feet into the climb.   You’re making this move about waist above the bolt.  I would now consider this G rated.  You can get a variety of small cams and nuts up to the next bolt.   This second bolt protects the next run out slab.   If you want to keep the character of the original route, forego this bolt and move up and right through an obvious diaganol crack that takes a red #1 cam.   From here pass the rap station and angle left towards a a right facing corner that was optional good belay prior to the rap station placement.   Escape around this wall by using good holds on the right (5.6) or go directly up the crack at probably 5.8/9.   the remainder of the route is fairly well protected for a slab with placements every 10 feet or so.  Rap with a single 60m rope to mid  station or with two 60m ropes to the ground. I’d consider this to route to be PG with placement of the new bolts.  

Photos