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Routes in Bald Mountain

Branches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cardiac Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Sqeeze T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Spring Fever T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where's the Booty? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Zig-Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 212 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jul 4, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up slabby steps with a crack system, trending left slightly. At a bulge, break through (pin) the crux, reaching a steep slab with a serious runout move to pass. With that bit solved, the pro is good to the anchor.
For pitch two, work up bulging arete and up pleasant clean rock with an ever-expanding view to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor.

Location

About 100' right of the private property boundary where the approach trail reaches the cliff. Once at the cliff, go right, around the small obstructing buttress, then look for an opening in the tree canopy with a view to a high arete.

Protection

While most of the route is decently protected - including a couple bolts on the upper pitch - the crux is more than a body-length above the last decent piece of gear. And if you are not tall, there is an unprotected 5.6 move 20' above the last pro above that as well. It's a slabby/friction move without any "death-grip" insurance holds, and there are plenty of ledges to bash into if you fall.
There is a rap anchor at the top, and at the top of the first pitch as well.

Photos

Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
  5.6 R
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri
  5.6 R
This climb is NOT for the beginner leader.... Must be solid at the grade. Cool movement and nice position. 4 days ago

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