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Routes in Scarpa Pizzo

SuckyWahkyMuckyFucky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unknown Right Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Right Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ross Swanson, Mike Endicott, George Bracksieck
Page Views: 82 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Jul 3, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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P1. Climb up cracks and small ledges to a roof, and go left under the roof and following slanting cracks in dihedrals & under roofs to the left. Watch for loose blocks. At about 30 meters, set a belay at a small ledge at edge of rock face just above blocky corners.

P2. Step up, and traverse right for 7 meters then up to huge ledge. With double ropes, you may combine this with P1, otherwise the rope drag would be great.

P3. Walk right on a ledge until below a big, left-facing corner. Sprint up broken cracks using your #4.5 at a large gap. Follow cracks up and left around corners.


After crossing bridge, walk upstream 50 feet, turn left, and head to a clearing. At a rock face, scramble around on the left side in a loop on 3rd Class terrain to gain the upper ledge.


A standard rack + #4 & #4.5 Camalots.


Mike noticed this line on June 11, and we climbed it on June 18. The first pitch looked improbable and dirty. The third pitch begins near the right end of a big wide ledge and climbs a series of left-facing dihedrals, jogging left to reach each successive one. Ross led p.1 and 3. Mike led p.2. Jul 12, 2017

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