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Blood Orange

5.12a, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 45 votes
FA: Shadow Ayala
Wyoming > Lander Area > Wild Iris > Erratic

Description

Climb the "blood orange" colored lichen face just left of 'Queen of Hearts'. The bottom half is very crimpy and atypical of Wild Iris. After the crimpy crux, climb on pockets and surpass a fun bulge with an easy roof finish above.

Location

Left of Queen of Hearts.

Protection

Bolts with steel permas at anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rachel nabbing the 2nd ascent.
[Hide Photo] Rachel nabbing the 2nd ascent.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Flacker
Lander, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the addition. worthy endeavor Jul 12, 2017
[Hide Comment] Felt pretty heady without the stick clip. More vert climbing than the usual Wild Iris fare. Sep 2, 2017
ALuckyDuck
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] +1 for the stick clip. Some very nice climbing on a techy vert lichen face =) Jul 13, 2019
Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Natural line is rather right of the first couple bolts off of the pillar. Rather sharp and engaging start but actually eases off when it gets steeper ~ bolt 4. Sep 8, 2019
Shadow Ayala
Somerset, KY
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Adam, the reason I bolted left of that is because that feature is hollow sounding and kind of chossy. Starting left and climbing to the right is on better rock. Sep 8, 2019
Ryan McDermott
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Broke the clipping hold at the second bolt today. New beta further right is slightly harder but does not change the grade. However, now you have to stick clip the second bolt, or else it is at least a letter grade harder. Also recommend skipping the anchors. The clip requires a V3 move out the roof, but the clipping jug is all spikes. I got deep punctures both times I clipped the anchors. Aug 5, 2020
Herder Anus
Colona, CO
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Climbing this before and after the hold broke, I have to say even climbing off route to the right still feels harder (and off route) than the original way. 12b+? Scary lead without stick clipping the 2nd. Straight up feels like V5/6. Jug at anchors is sweet and very easy to get to, V0? I cut feet on it. Aug 19, 2023