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Routes in Hidden Heavenly Slab

6 Ways From Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
7th Way, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
All About Volume T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Altered Alter Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostate Apsotle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Black Sabbath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Golden Plates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guardian Angel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Indie Dog Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonely Sinner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mischievous Moroni T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My God, Your God T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North of Heaven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradise on Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Personal Jihad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pudgy Pastor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Resurrection to Eternal Life T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son of a Preacher Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: T. Phillips, C. Martin, L. Douglas, B. Sadowsky - 2012/13
Page Views: 202 total · 30/month
Shared By: Boissal on Jul 2, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Yet another great vision from prolific choss muncher TP, this 3-pitcher takes you for a wild ride up the far right side of the Hidden Heavenly Slab, mixing ridiculously steep juggy moves with delicate slab work.

Pitch 1 - Straight to business: after a couple of moves and the first clip, tackle a steep bulge on black rock using bad smears and not-so-great sidepulls. Make a touchy second clip and establish on a small shelf. From there, follow a short crack and cruise up the water streak toward the diagonal roof band, clipping bolts and using the occasional piece of gear. Diagonal along the lip until you can surmount the roof, cross a major choss garden, and follow zig-zagging ramps (left then right) to a 2-bolt belay. A stout warm up, feels more like techy LCC 10+.
7 bolts (ish) + small/med gear.

Pitch 2 - Scamper up the gully to your right for a couple moves before establishing on the slab and follow a wandering line of bolts toward a steep section (some runners helpful). Once things tilt back a bit, follow a right-trending line of decent edges culminating in a wild and very-gym like set of moves to establish on a shelf below the lip of the roof. Pull this and traverse left to a set of anchors below a much bigger and steeper overhang.
8 bolts (ish) + optional small stuff?

Pitch 3 - Take a deep breath and traverse left on the ledge to get below a steep dihedral feature. Stem, yard on creaky jugs, clip a bolt, place a couple small pieces, and eventually roll over the lip of the White Lines-like overhang (in steepness, not grade). Stroll up the slab above, clipping spaced out bolts on immaculate rock.
6 or 7 bolts, small to medium gear (up to #1).

Pitch 4 - Undone, a bigger version of the previous overhangs. Get after it!

Location

The route starts a couple hundred feet up canyon from the 7th way. Look for a right trending narrow ramp at the base and a right trending roof band about 50' up. Several black water marks streak the face, the first bolt sits in one of them, it's painted light orange.

Protection

8-ish draws and a few runners. Gear to a #2 (never found a hand-sized placement but there must be one somewhere).
A #3 secures the belayer before the 1st clip is made.
Bolted anchors, rap the route, looks like a 60m would work but I only used a 70m.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
We didn't like the ledge fall potential getting to the first bolt. Will bring a stick next time. Sep 18, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10c
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10c
Super fun route! Single set wires to a #2 Camalot is plenty. Mostly bolts. Long draws are nice on the second pitch to straighten out the rope. Take a 70m rope for safety on the raps - I think a 60m would be too close for comfort. Aug 12, 2017