Type: Ice, Alpine, 2500 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 995 total · 31/month
Shared By: Chris C. on Jul 1, 2017
Admins: Tony Yeary

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Huarapasca (5420m) is a lesser climbed peak in the southern region of the Cordillera Blanca which does not appear in the Brad Johnson book. The South Route is typically an alpine ice climb, but can be found as pure blue ice or sugar snow. Although this peak is lower for the range, do not be fooled by it's potential to throw all sorts of different conditions at you. I would grade this route as an AD, based on the grades of other routes in the Blanca.

Due to the beginning of this route's close proximity to the highway, it can be climbed in a single day, taking the average party approximately 10 hours car to car. When beginning at the trail head, walk down the trail until you see what appears to be a vertical rock wall. Follow the scrambly path over the wall and continue towards climber's left towards the obvious snow slope. Rope up at the snow and begin climbing.

The steepest section is around the middle of this slope, which comes to about 65-70 degrees. Depending on what you are comfortable simulclimbing, this slope is around 0-3 pitches. Keep moving up until you find yourself on a plateau. Orient yourself to the summit and climb another 0-2 pitches of around 45-55 degrees (again, depending on your simulclimbing confidence).

You can downclimb all the way back to the first snow slope with relative ease. Rapping the steepest sections will take 2 full rope lengths.


Huarapasca is located along the Carretera a Pastoruri highway. Coming from Huaraz, the trailhead is only marked by a sign on the left saying that mountaineering is a dangerous activity. Mark the mountain on your GPS and drive until you see this sign. From the trailhead, it will look like you are going to spend the day climbing a chossy heap, but as you move upward you will see that the mountain is actually glaciated.

Protection & Gear

Double 60m ropes, 2 pickets (will be left behind if rapping), screws if icy. There is very little movement over low angle terrain, so 2 tools is more useful than a hybrid and a tool.