Start on the left side of a double crack system that merges just above about half way up. Fingers, hands, off hands, some good jugs, plenty of feetsies and on a vertical to slightly overhanging wall. Clip a bolt which protects a spot that has less than desirable gear and pull into the now definitely overhanging section. Clip that ring thingy out right (use a double sling) and pull onto the big holds which surround that big block you're now bear hugging until you can reach into that gnarly hand crack. The anchors are just above and to the right... promise!
This route is located on a separate wall to the climbers right from the decent trail. The double crack system that merges together about 40 feet up located about center of the wall. Just to the left of that big obvious left facing roof... Oh, now I confused you...