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Routes in Bald Rock Dome

Bit Of Honey T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groove, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moroccan Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Six Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smooth Operator S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trip Around the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Koppl, Mary Wuest - June 25, 2017
Page Views: 390 total · 25/month
Shared By: Twinboas on Jun 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Modern ground up first ascent completed as a birthday celebration despite the 95 degree heat. Route takes a near plumb line between Fox Trot and Paradox up excellent quality rock. This route may be heady in places and requires some route finding up the dikes between widely spaced bolts, it's recommended being comfortable on runout 5.8 slab. There are hardly any supplemental gear placements, so leave the rack at home or suffer the weight penalty!

This is a great rappel route to get to the base if you want to climb on this side of the dome (two 60m ropes are necessary). Full stainless hardware and Fixe anchors, enjoy!


Pitch 1, 10a: scramble up broken 5.2 terrain to a bomber 0.5" or 0.75" cam at the base of an obvious seam (marks the start of the route). A bolt protects 5.10a climbing up the seams until you gain a ledge. Pass the first low anchor of Paradox on your right, stay left but if you want you can clip it with a long sling to protect the easy climbing to the high second bolt. Climb through many small mantles (5.9) and clip a third bolt before heading up and right to a spacious ledge with a manzanita bush (stay left until final traverse to anchors) 3 bolts, 55m

Pitch 2, 10c: The crux of the route, climb up to a high first bolt just before the business starts. Three reasonably spaced bolts protect the crux (rad!) which is perfect golden friction slab with tiny dike side pulls. After the crux there is a nice wide ledge, keep climbing for another 5 meters to a medium sized belay stance. 3 bolts, 40m

Pitch 3, 5.9: Traverse back and forth up dikes, ultimately going straight up. 3 bolts, 55m

Pitch 4, 5.8: Climb an amazing wide dike straight off the anchors there are two bolts on the lower half of pitch. Stay on the face to the right of a small left facing dihedral, clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb straight up to anchors above a low angle sloping belay stance. 3 bolts, 55m

Pitch 5, 5.6: 2 bolts protect easy runout climbing on crispy rock straight up to what I believe is the final anchor of Paradox. This anchor consists of two SMC hangers and beefy chains on a great ledge/belay couch. From here, climb roped for a short section or solo to the very top of the dome. 2 bolts, 50m

Location

Left side of the dome. Start on a nice flat rock in the shade of a big tree. Route is down and right of the Bit of Honey roof and starts between Fox Trot and Paradox. Look for a seam where the rock becomes steeper with a bolt above it, this is the start of the route.

Protection

Rack: 4 quickdraws or alpine draws, medium cam. Lots of water for climbing in full sun all day!

Pitches have 3-4 bolts without supplemental gear placements. A 0.5 or 0.75" cam protects getting to the first bolt, a tiny nut can be used to supplement.

***Aside from the final pitch the anchors used are Fixe Trad anchors, they are vertically staggered bolts with an equalized rappel ring. If you haven't used these before, the rap ring is rated to 50kn and is stronger than your harness or your rope, just clip a fat locker into it and you're good to go. They are sweet if you give them a chance.

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