Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Chris Koppl, Mary Wuest - June 25, 2017|
|Page Views:||1,445 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Twinboas on Jun 30, 2017|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
This is a great rappel route to get to the base if you want to climb on this side of the dome (two 60m ropes are necessary). Full stainless hardware and Fixe anchors, enjoy!
Pitch 1, 10a: scramble up broken 5.2 terrain to a bomber 0.5" or 0.75" cam at the base of an obvious seam (marks the start of the route). A bolt protects 5.10a climbing up the seams until you gain a ledge. Pass the first low anchor of Paradox on your right, stay left but if you want you can clip it with a long sling to protect the easy climbing to the high second bolt. Climb through many small mantles (5.9) and clip a third bolt before heading up and right to a spacious ledge with a manzanita bush (stay left until final traverse to anchors) 3 bolts, 55m
Pitch 2, 10c: The crux of the route, climb up to a high first bolt just before the business starts. Three reasonably spaced bolts protect the crux (rad!) which is perfect golden friction slab with tiny dike side pulls. After the crux there is a nice wide ledge, keep climbing for another 5 meters to a medium sized belay stance. 3 bolts, 40m
Pitch 3, 5.9: Traverse back and forth up dikes, ultimately going straight up. 3 bolts, 55m
Pitch 4, 5.8: Climb an amazing wide dike straight off the anchors there are two bolts on the lower half of pitch. Stay on the face to the right of a small left facing dihedral, clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb straight up to anchors above a low angle sloping belay stance. 3 bolts, 55m
Pitch 5, 5.6: 2 bolts protect easy runout climbing on crispy rock straight up to what I believe is the final anchor of Paradox. This anchor consists of two SMC hangers and beefy chains on a great ledge/belay couch. From here, climb roped for a short section or solo to the very top of the dome. 2 bolts, 50m
Pitches have 3-4 bolts without supplemental gear placements. A 0.5 or 0.75" cam protects getting to the first bolt, a tiny nut can be used to supplement.
***Aside from the final pitch the anchors used are Fixe Trad anchors, they are vertically staggered bolts with an equalized rappel ring. If you haven't used these before, the rap ring is rated to 50kn and is stronger than your harness or your rope, just clip a fat locker into it and you're good to go. They are sweet if you give them a chance.