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Routes in The Guardian

God's Country T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Sweeney, Shawn Toohey, Paul Wharton
Page Views: 117 total, 25/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Jun 27, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

The first pitch of this climb is long and sustained of the highest quality. Excellent rock, features, and movement for Hatcher Pass. With the long approach comes amazing position.

From the boulder-flake cave climb up a steep left trending ramp system. Before going too far left, move right towards the shallow corner-crack system below the roofs. Follow the corner-crack to the first roof, pull it to the right, pass the anchor at the roof (unless continuing on second pitch) follow the crack up and right to anchor beside second roof. This pitch is a long (~40m) and sustained 5.9.

Location

Starting in boulder-flake cave may be best, although shady and moist. Alternative would be in front of and to the left of boulder-flake on grass pedestals.

Protection

Gear to 3" with doubles nice. Alpine draws on everything also nice.

Two 2 bolt-anchors for first pitch:

First anchor is right after pulling roof in an awkward place and position just above first roof and under second roof, which may be necessary to do the second pitch due to need for protection from loose rock.

Upper, first pitch anchor is to right of second roof in a more comfortable position. There may be a loose flake just above this belay that is perched to annihilate the anchor, and could be a problem if continuing on second pitch. Anchor cord replaced 6/26/17. The left bolt has a wee bit of wobble...

Anchor with slings at top of second pitch, and then pick your rappel line. A gully off either side of the feature may make for a shorter rappel.

Descent from either of the first pitch anchors will require double ropes, or creativity. It is possible to rappel with one 70m from the upper first pitch anchor to a big ledge climbers right. From here tiptoe right along the ledge to the anchor for the sport climbs. You still may need a single 70m to get from here to ground.

Be prepared to leave gear if you've only brought one rope and you botch the rappel.

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