Type: Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,849 total · 33/month
Shared By: Tony L on Jun 27, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent 4-pitch, fully bolted route with sustained 5.10+ climbing for the first 2 pitches. Second two pitches ease off.

To get to the P1 belay, scramble up a 6 ft tall fin (4th class) onto a sloping ledge.

P1. 19 bolts up a slabby groove. At the very top of the groove, head slight right and mantle onto a good stance with a 2-bolt belay  5.10, 180 ft

P2. Continue straight up the slab for 60 ft (crux), passing a small roof, before trending right towards an overhanging right-facing corner. Surmount this corner (long draws helpful) and mantle left onto a slab to reach a comfortable 2-bolt belay. 5.10, 110 ft

P3. Move 20 ft left over mossy, broken ledges to find another steep but shallow right-facing corner. Pull the corner and continue straight up on low-angle slab for another 50 ft to a big sloping ledge and 2-bolt belay. 5.8, 70 ft

P4. Move 6 ft right from the P3 belay to climb up a right-trending, broken ramp. Clip a bolt above this ramp (just out of view from the belay) and continue straight up the slab for 50 ft. At the top of the slab, climb up 8 ft of dirty overlapping cracks to pull over the lip and top out the route. 5.8, 80 ft

Walk off: continue up the slabs trending slightly left and aiming towards the top of the bienvenides gully. At the top of the slabs, you'll link back up with the approach trail and make your way back to the car, about 30 min total. It's also possible to rappel the route in 3 rappels (P4 to P2, P2 to P1, P1 to ground), though two ropes are required.

Location

Follow main directions to the Lost World. The first wall you come to is the Bienvenidos Wall on your right. Walk steeply downhill along this wall for 10 min before turning left into the main gorge. Here you'll begin scrambling up and down large boulders instead of a trail. As soon as you pop out of the trees and get a view of the lake, look down and left along the cliff line and you'll spot what (from this point of view) is the tallest tree in the gully. Aim for that.

About 2/3 of the way down, you'll reach a flat-topped boulder with rock walls built up on either side of it next to an 80 ft long dead tree (Google Image here). Pangea starts 100 ft downhill and to the left of here. Look for a 35-ft chalked-up 5.11 on tan rock (Green Monster). Pangea starts on a sloping ledge 20 ft to the right of this.

Protection

20+ draws

Photos