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Routes in Organ Needle

Buzzard Peakbag T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Ingraham's Gully T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Normal Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Searching for Ingraham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 59 total, 10/month
Shared By: Drew Chojnowski on Jun 26, 2017
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Buzzard Peak is the eastern sub-summit of Organ Needle, appearing quite impressive when viewed from the true Organ Needle summit and providing equally amazing views. This route is certainly not a destination on it's own, but if you're up there anyway, why not?

From the true Organ Needle summit, scramble down toward the SW side of Buzzard Peak. A large dead Juniper tree marks the start of the route, which is an obvious, easy-looking gully. Harder options exist in the vicinity, e.g. the crack below the fixed piton.

Protection

Climbing shoes and a 30m or longer rope are recommended. There is a good piton in a crack above & climber's left of the route in addition to numerous slingable blocks that could be used for rappel. Without the rope, you'll have to down-climb, probably aiding via a very sketchy setup whereby one end of a long piece of webbing is knotted and tucked into a lower crack and the other end is knotted and tucked about 5 ft above between slab and a sizable boulder that one could imagine sliding down the route. The webbing is a few years old at least, but not in terrible condition. A few small cams would protect the route.

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