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Send Town

5.11a PG13, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 58 votes
FA: Scott Smith and Travis Signor
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall

Description

5 bolts to chains

Start a little left of first bolt. Move up to a rail that goes up and right then up to first clip. Move left and up and make 2nd clip, then move straight up. It is also possible to traverse left, and then up. This is a little easier, and even better,you can find a good rest. But stay on route and keep the burn going. Find a stance and make 3rd clip, then climb crux.

Follow 4 bolts to the final roof. Grab that jug and your going to send town. There is a 5th bolt above final roof, and anchors at the top. Fun and pumpy.

To tope rope be sure to clip the rope to a draw on the 3rd or 4th bolt. You need to protect for the swing.

Location

first bolted route you come to at crag.
There are anchors at the top

Protection

5 bolts
To Top rope be sure to clip the 2nd or 3rd bolt to protect swing

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Picture of whole route
[Hide Photo] Picture of whole route
first 3 bolts
[Hide Photo] first 3 bolts
Consider using a longer draw on the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Consider using a longer draw on the first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Elric
rockville
 
[Hide Comment] Underappreciated route - interesting moves and great pump.

The hard part is clipping more so than the climbing. 3rd bolt is the crux - I do a left knee bar. seems a lil ridiculous for an 11a but far as I can tell it's the best option at 5'8". Otherwise I'd have to go a healthy ways out left and risky quite a pendulum swing.

NOTE: 9/10/17 there was a large yellow jacket nest on the ground right where the climber lowers. I got stung while belaying. Sep 11, 2017
Pierce Tickle
Richmond, VA
[Hide Comment] As of 3/18/18 there are perma-draws for the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts. You can stick-clip the first two bolts up before you start to make it a bit less PG-13, though the first clip is a little spicy so if you have never done the route before, you may want to start with rope through the first draw (or use a crashpad). Mar 19, 2018
S Perry
 
[Hide Comment] Good technical movement for the headwall. But the rock quality is poor in many areas which detracts from the route significantly. Apr 2, 2018
Sean Tracy
Front Royal, VA
[Hide Comment] The fixed gear was removed. The BD Quicksilver biners haven't been in production for 15 to 20 years and the second one did not even close on it's own anymore. The first fixed draw on the route was almost completely worn through on the back side from people falling on it and grinding it against the rock. The quick links were not climbing rated hardware. Jul 17, 2018
David West
VA
[Hide Comment] Removed the fixed gear meaning just the perma-draws, or the bolts as well? Jan 8, 2019
Chris Singletary
Blacksburg, VA
  5.10c PG13
[Hide Comment] David, bolts are still there. Beware a detached, cube-shaped block about a foot above and slightly left of 2nd bolt. It was a crucial sidepull for me that let me bypass the crux, but it wiggled some and made scraping noises... Jul 6, 2020
John Nguyen
SLC, UT
  5.10b/c PG13
[Hide Comment] If you can do a gym 11 you can do this route. On par with Leading Should Feel This Way imo Dec 1, 2020