Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Brown's Ridge (aka "Whiteface")

Browns Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Harvest Moon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Honeymoon S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Night Moves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
O-Town Browns T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polish the Monkey (mid-cliff START) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Dwarfs, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shine Your Helmet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Somebody's Got to Do It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Graham & Arnold Jautaikis
Page Views: 185 total · 13/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 26, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb starts where "Somebody's Got to Do It" ends.
History - According to Webster, (2nd Ed. 1986) the FA was made with one bolt just above the flake and stepped "right into a small depression" and then made "hard moves back left on a faint dike to the last bolt of [Helmet's] bolt ladder."

Presently above the flake there are 3 closely spaced bolts that lead directly up, sort of parallel to Helmet's bolt ladder and 15-20 ft right of it. Above these there's 2 or 3 more bolts) that lead to an independent 2 bolt anchor. I suspect these upper 3-5 bolts are an extension of the climb whose lower section climbs the bolted Left-facing corner between "Helmut" and "Polish".

P1 - From the Shine Your Helmet's P1 anchor [or top of "Somebody's Got To Do It"] , move to an obvious flake; up this to the small horizontal at its top. (Beware the blueberries which might totally hide the horizontal!  The vegitation further right may not be supported by rock!)  Clip the bolt and step right to the depression (now with some lichen) and then step back left and up past  bolts (5.9+ / 5.10a ? ).  Continue up and very slightly right passing 2-3 more bolts to a double bolt anchor. 120-125 ft from ground, 5.9+ / 5.10a? , the climb can just barely be TR'ed with a full-length 70m rope.

Protection

draws, maybe a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot for the crack in the flake

Photos

chinos
 
chinos  
 
This route is a variation to the bolt ladder on Shine You Helmet and has about 10' of independent climbing. Climb Somebody’s Got To Do It to the stance on the anchor ledge. Climb the flake on the right to a bolt. Follow the small dyke back left to the last bolt on the ladder. Finish up Shine Your Helmet to the bolted ring anchor. Sep 30, 2017

More About Polish the Monkey (mid-cliff START)

Printer-Friendly