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Routes in 1. Main Slab

Edge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Harvest Moon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
O-Town Browns T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polish the Monkey (mid-cliff START) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Dwarfs, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shine Your Helmet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Somebody's Got to Do It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yet to Be Named T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jim Graham & John Marshall July 1985
Page Views: 275 total · 18/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 26, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The "bolt ladder" goes free at about 5.10 (FFA Brad White ?)

The first ascentionists did the route as a 2 pitch route, combining what is given as P1 and P2 here, and then taking a line more to the right on the upper slab.

START- At the Right-facing corner/crack system about 15 ft right of the well-scrubbed climb "The Edge"

P1 - Climb the corner/crack system to the double bolt anchor. 50-60 ft 5.6 If you're not happy soloing 5.6 jam (or layback) cracks take along one or two size 4 Camalot(s).

P2 - Make free moves to the bolt ladder (now 3/8 inch SS) and up this to a dbl bolt anchor. 50+/- ft   5.10  or 5.7 A 0-1.

P3 - The FA seems to have gone more right to finish the climb, but the obvious line is to climb up the slab, trending sligtly left and passing two 3/8 inch SS bolts, to the P2 belay of The Edge. 110-115 ft 5.3-5.4

P4 - Either up P3 of The Edge (80 ft 5.5 - 5.6) or up right to finish more in the area of the FA.

Descent - Rap The Edge with a single 70m rope, or a 60m with tag line for the middle rap.

Protection

Medium to large ( #4 Camalot-sized) for P1, then draws.

Photos

chinos
 
chinos  
 
A great climb located on the left side of the main face that offers a variety of techniques on quality rock. There are several variations to the climb and all of them are good.
P1: Scramble up the mungy start to a wide crack in a groove. Jam and layback up the crack to a stance on a sloping ledge that now has a bolt anchor. (The original route continued to the second anchor). Climb the slightly right leaning arch past the bolt ladder. Continue straight up to good gear and a flake. Follow a dyke left to a bolted ring anchor. 100’ 5.7 A1 or 5.10b
P2: Climb straight up off the anchor to a bolt. Run it out on good features to a foot ledge with a second bolt. Finish straight up to a bolted ring anchor at the tree ledge that is shared with The Edge. 110’ 5.5 Sep 30, 2017

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