All Locations > South Dakota > The Needles Of… > Mount Rushmore… > Magna Carta > Monster North > Monster Gully
401 OK Plan
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||D Solon/Solon June 25, 2017|
|Page Views:||129 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||the museum on Jun 25, 2017|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details
Start either below the high flake at the bottom of the gully, or scramble up to the large flake and belay from there, OR down low and E in the gully belay from the 18" pine tree. Somehow achieve the top of the large flake, move up clip two bolts keeping you safe in retirement, and up and left to the crack amid the face. Climb the crack or alongside, or lieback, with some good pro. From a coffee maker sized bump at the top of the crack, clip the bolt nearby and head straight up, past one more bolt to the anchor.
The route is on the south side of the Monster summit nearer the east end. From the large granite slab E of the Monster summit, approaching the gully that splits the Monster summit, stop BEFORE you head up into the splitting gully. There are 2 chimneys on the E end, this route is BETWEEN the first 2 chimneys. Rap the route, as of this date, there isn't a second pitch. Also, without climbing another route and rapping from a horn above this route, leaving gear, there is NO TOP ROPE opp.
2 bolts below the crack close together to prevent decking on the flake, then several pieces in the crack including medium to large stoppers, .5 BD and the bomber #1 cinnamon BD at the coffee maker sized hold. Also, there are 2 bolts above the top of the crack and then the chain anchors. Additionally, the anchor is clearly visible from the Granite Slab E of the Monster summit. The rappel from the anchor is 24 meters, 60 meter rope = OK.