Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
If and Only If (iff) is a burly little number that climbs out the steepest part of the Dungeon. Climb steep corner-like features to a two bolt long crux sequence that culminates with a heartbreaking move to a thank God jug. Hold on through easier but pumpy terrain to the chains.
This is a pretty special route for me as it is one of my hardest redpoints, and I got it 2.5 months after my first child was born. Summon your inner Dad strength, and enjoy!
Location
It is between Zed's Dead and Tanuki in the center of the steep wall.
Protection
11 bolts and a kneebar pad or two.
Note: the first 7 bolts have permadraws, so you only need 4 draws. The first several draws were heinous to clean!
[Hide Photo] An early attempt of If and Only If. This original beta was super burly and not as fun as the new crimp beta that is commonly used now. Photo by Rob Kepley.
[Hide Photo] Fighting the pump in the crux on an early attempt of IFF.
[Hide Comment] I'm guessing the grade will settle around 13b, but the pumpy nature of the climbing makes it hard to grade. I was able to do all of the moves on the first day, but it took a long time for me build up the fitness necessary to put it all together.
Jun 23, 2017
[Hide Comment] The crux is around 13c. The rest of the route is 12d. Split the difference, and give yourself 13b for the send. This is an amazing area, sure to become popular when people figure out what's up.
Aug 27, 2017
[Hide Comment] What a stellar line with varied movement and holds! Full body trickery clears you through the crux with thoughtful, fun climbing before and after. Great eye, Dave!
Jul 9, 2018
[Hide Comment] The bolt at the kneebar rest was quite loose on 9/23/21, and I was able to tighten, but I would recommend replacing with a glue-in if possible due to its positioning and high fall regularity.
Sep 25, 2021
[Hide Comment] For being 5'3", I would give this 5.13a based on how difficult it felt for me. Great route overall, the crux is fun, and the rest is just trying to manage the pump for a while on about 5.10+ climbing to the anchors.
Oct 13, 2021
The bolt the protects the crux (#5?) is loose and coming slightly (3/16”) out of its hole.
I see that it has been loose and tightened previously. This may be a good candidate for a glue-in replacement, since it gets whipped on a lot. I don’t have the experience to do this myself, or I would.
Edited to Add:
So, a guy that was up there today (6/20/22) said that he tightened this bolt on Friday (6/17/22). Well, by the end of the afternoon today (6/20/22) it had become loose again. I retightened it, but don’t have much confidence in it staying tight. Tread with caution, especially did you plan on skipping the next clip, as a fall onto this bolt would then be quite long, and if it blows, the potential to deck would exist.
Jun 13, 2022
Got on this for the first time this season (2023), and when I arrived at BOLT 3, it was literally half way out of its hole! I could only finger tighten it down, as no one at the crag had a wrench (Doh! After last year, you think I’d know better?!?).
Jun 27, 2023
[Hide Comment] The first three bolts were replaced 7/2/23 with glue-ins. The third had completely loosened and fallen out. The first two were spinners. All other bolts were tight and in good condition and were not replaced.
This was coordinated through BCC’s anchor replacement program. Please consider donating, becoming a member or volunteering: boulderclimbers.org/bolt-re….
Jun 27, 2023
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
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Golden, CO
Las Vegas, NV
Durango, CO
Bailey, CO
The bolt the protects the crux (#5?) is loose and coming slightly (3/16”) out of its hole.
I see that it has been loose and tightened previously. This may be a good candidate for a glue-in replacement, since it gets whipped on a lot. I don’t have the experience to do this myself, or I would.
Edited to Add:
So, a guy that was up there today (6/20/22) said that he tightened this bolt on Friday (6/17/22). Well, by the end of the afternoon today (6/20/22) it had become loose again. I retightened it, but don’t have much confidence in it staying tight. Tread with caution, especially did you plan on skipping the next clip, as a fall onto this bolt would then be quite long, and if it blows, the potential to deck would exist. Jun 13, 2022
Bailey, CO
Got on this for the first time this season (2023), and when I arrived at BOLT 3, it was literally half way out of its hole! I could only finger tighten it down, as no one at the crag had a wrench (Doh! After last year, you think I’d know better?!?). Jun 27, 2023
Denver, CO
This was coordinated through BCC’s anchor replacement program. Please consider donating, becoming a member or volunteering: boulderclimbers.org/bolt-re…. Jun 27, 2023