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Feet of Fire

5.11+, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 4 from 5 votes
FA: Purcell, Mellor 1990
New York > Adirondacks > Chapel Pond Pass > Upper Washbowl Cliff

Description

The description of this route in the Adirondack Rock guidebook may scare folks off it, but I was surprised to find a number of nice new bolts protecting the start. The 10c R section is no longer a concern: hopefully this encourages more folks to go climb it.

This awesome, varied, and sustained pitch is in an amazing position and offers off-vertical 5.11 climbing that protects well and will keep you thinking. Begin at the bolts to the right of the Partition corner, off the slanted ledge, and climb through clean solid edges to interspersed rests between technical, engaging cruxes. At the last bolt, prepare for uninterrupted difficulties until the end, as well as some Adirondack dirt and lichen to keep things interesting.

Location

Begins 20 feet right of the Partition corner, on the slanting ledge

Protection

Bring a standard rack. Bolts and a few pitons and an old can-opener looking riveted hangar protect the meat of the bottom half, but the crux(es) and most of the route are protected with good gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice wall eh? You can manage rope better than I did
[Hide Photo] Nice wall eh? You can manage rope better than I did

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Yes, as detailed here adirondackrock.com/newroute…, this route has been upgraded by the FA party. Jun 22, 2017
Edek Falkowski
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] An absolute masterpiece, one of the best 5.11 face climbs anywhere. Was done ground-up on lead in true style, hand drilling the "can opener hanger" 1/4" bolt on a hook, then down-climbing to the last piece and re-climbing to clip the hand-drilled bolt. Nov 19, 2020