PRINT: Rock Climb Things That Rhyme With Bilbo, Custer State Park

Things That Rhyme With Bilbo

5.8-, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 20 votes
FA: unknown
S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Middle Earth > Ered Lithui

Description

Start on chute. Clip bolt, undercling and straddle the giant protrusion after placing in crack underneath. Solid #8 hex placement. Continue up obvious line clipping bolts, placing stoppers. Meander left, placing small cam or stopper in vertical crack on left and finishing through two bolts on the pinnacle.

Location

Walk into the gulley that contains the small fin between Hrum Hroom and Goldberry Lane. This route is about 250 feet down the gulley from Goldberry Lane, on the same wall. Look for the giant protrusion.

Protection

Nuts or small cams, one bomber number 8 hex, bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Just past the protrusion.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

el guapo

5.8

I've climbed this a handful of times and feel 5.7 may be a bit soft. It does depend a great deal on how you climb this.. With that said, 5.8 or possible 5.8+ if you diagonal higher, rather than lower. Jan 26, 2018

Adam Pequette
Rapid City, SD

5.8-

A single 70 meter rope works for the rappel. I don't think a 60 would make it. The #8 hex is a not necessary as the first bolt is right below the protrusion/bulge. I used it because I brought it. There is a nice nut placement right after the bulge that protects the journey to bolt #2. I only found one bolt (rather than 2 stated in the description) on the upper pinnacle. All my placements, outside of the #8 hex, were nuts. The top anchors and bolts are all relatively new and in great shape. I found the crux to be in a place where I wasn't expecting it. Sep 26, 2021