Avg: 2.7 from 58 votes
|Type:||Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Todd Offenbacher, Chris McNamara|
|Page Views:||7,845 total · 148/month|
|Shared By:||Refuge Jared on Jun 20, 2017 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Caldor Fire closures:
(1) El Dorado National Forest closed to all users until at least September 30, 2021.
(2) Desolation Wilderness closed through October 20, 2021. Map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
(3) Lake Tahoe Basin National Forest land in South Lake Tahoe is also closed through December 31, 2021. Map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Location: 38.842284, -120.045334
1st pitch: 5.4, 35m
2nd pitch: 5.6, 35m
3rd pitch: 5.7, 30m (difficulty argued)
4th pitch: 5.5, 25m (see note*)
Each pitch is progressively steeper, taking the more interesting line at each opportunity. Steeper sections may have some hand holds or more textured rock for smearing. The crux, however, is very much dependent on smearing technique and is arguably harder than similarly graded routes (5.7) nearby at the Guntower Wall.
There are some run out sections where climbing is quite easy. Bolt spacing is more generous in crux areas. Could likely be heady for a new 5.7 leader, namely at the crux where climbing is friction dependent and there are little to no hands before a clip.
* At the 4th pitch, 1st bolt may not be immediately visible. Traverse Left to tree and look up on the slab to your Left.
The second bolt is only visible once you've clipped the first bolt and moved out onto the face, but it's there. This pitch is only two bolts and then the anchor just to the Right of the big tree. Note that if you skip any bolts, it will remove helpful directionals and make the route more difficult for your follower.
Unlike MU, you can easily see and hear your partner from each of the belay stations, which vary from very small to large ledges.
Rappel is NOT available. Anchors are 2 bolts with hangers.
Walk off options:
1) Follow the rock face climbers right until it ends (maybe 150m?), this is the start of a gully on the backside. Descend the gully on the backside as it wraps around to the front. Longer, but a dirt hike and not as steep as option (2).
2) Walk off climber's Right and find your way down 3rd class slab back to the trail. Slab to the trail can be hard to find at first; keep an eye out for cairns and follow them closely for a more gradual descent. Note that the slab descent may be more dirty or wet from snow melt early in the season, which can complicate things.
Named after local Meyers cafe/bar. Def a Meyers favorite and a good spot to grab food and a drink after a day of climbing.
The route is well protected sport, but the FA leaves a note that there may be placements available for gear to 1.5. These are optional placements if someone wanted to practice placing gear during a multipitch.
* At the 4th pitch, 1st bolt may not be immediately visible. Traverse Left to tree and look up the slab to your Left.
The second bolt is only visible once you've clipped the first bolt and moved out onto the face, but it's there. This pitch is only two bolts and then the anchor just to the Right of the big tree.