Staring Without Caring
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 48.63705, -120.46196 |
| FA: | Joe Kinder (originally bolted by Jeff Parmenter?) |
| Page Views: | 1,513 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 20, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
This route follows a compelling section of steep rock that comprises the shelf in that horizontally bifurcates a large section of the crag. An initial section with a testy boulder problem accesses a sweeping rightward traverse. Although it appears one can mantle out of the climb and onto the shelf at several points, I've been assured that either that's not the case or that it's at least undesirable. Though the route was rumored to be good, since the FFA it has been plagued by broken rock, knee injuries from heel hooking and a fade into obscurity from zero attempts in at least the last three years.
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