Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, but circa 2007
Page Views: 135 total · 8/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jun 20, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

The bottom 30 feet of the route are comprised of halfway decent moderate stemming in a dihedral and climbing on edges. There is a namesake hueco (or, more accurately, a shattered-looking hole in the rock) as one traverses left to begin the upper section. The rock and climbing quality quickly deteriorates, although not enough ruin the climb entirely. A new bolt added out left midway through what used to be a fairly significant (relative to the grade of the climb) runout appears to have made the climb safer.

Location

Leftmost route at the crag that begins in a left-facing corner and climbs the increasingly chossy slab.

Protection

8-10 bolts. Possibly fixed lowering hardware. Helmet. Employ a light touch on the friable rock.

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While not the greatest climb ever the description above seems a little extreme. I didn't find the route to be particularly run-out and didn't think the rock quality was as poor as stated. Anyway, the climb has quick-links for lowering and has 8 bolts. Oct 1, 2017
Drewsky
  5.10a
Drewsky  
  5.10a
I've softened up my stance on this climb a bit. It still has too much junky rock up high to really warrant much fanfare, but the new bolt appears to have made it safer and it seems cleaner than it used to be. A variation has been bolted that intends to provide a line on the right face of the dihedral. Unfortunately, it's quite contrived in that the initial bolts are much too close to bolts on Hueco Thanks and the climbing too close to that on both Hueco Thanks and The Torcher to provide an independent line. Avoiding climbing on those climbs is a forced endeavor. At bolt three of the variation, the climbing and bolting becomes less of a contrivance and more worthwhile. The top half of the variation suffers the same fate as the other climbs in this portion of the wall (IE, it's chossy and probably won't improve with time or climber traffic). Oct 3, 2017