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Routes in Fire Wall

8th Rule, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Firestarter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hueco Thanks (?) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Restless in Paradise S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Seam Surreal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Staring Without Caring S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Torcher, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Urban Refugee S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Urban Refugee Start S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, but circa 2007
Page Views: 97 total · 7/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jun 20, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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This route is somewhat similar to its neighbors to the right, but has a much larger quantity of bad rock and a runout through the worst of the it where a bolt couldn't even be safely installed. The bottom 30 feet are comprised of halfway decent moderate stemming in a dihedral and climbing on edges. There must be a namesake hueco (or shattered hole) thrown in there somewhere. The quality quickly deteriorates. After a trip or two (or maybe none!) up the climb, the chances of pulling off loose rock onto one's belayer and/or breaking a hold during the moderately lengthy runout and taking a bone-shattering whipper onto the slab below should begin to overrule the desire for a low-impact warmup and impel one towards better climbing nearby.


Leftmost route at the crag that begins in a left-facing corner and climbs the increasingly chossy slab.


8-10 bolts. Possibly fixed lowering hardware. Helmet. Employ a light touch on the friable rock.


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While not the greatest climb ever the description above seems a little extreme. I didn't find the route to be particularly run-out and didn't think the rock quality was as poor as stated. Anyway, the climb has quick-links for lowering and has 8 bolts. Oct 1, 2017
It's not that the route is excessively runout, but that the part that's runout is on highly suspect rock and occurs on a steeper section above the lower slab: a bad combination. After a half dozen trips up this route, I've simply concluded that it's not worth the risk especially with so many higher quality routes nearby. I've seen a lot of loose rock, albeit mostly smaller pieces, broken off of routes on the left side of the crag whilst people were climbing; there's a band of rock that's simply never going to "clean up" even with use and should be approached with caution. Oct 3, 2017

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