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Routes in Fire Wall

8th Rule, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Firestarter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hueco Thanks (?) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Restless in Paradise S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Seam Surreal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Staring Without Caring S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Torcher, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Urban Refugee S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Urban Refugee Start S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bryan Burdo or ?
Page Views: 51 total, 9/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jun 20, 2017 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

A decent route with some good climbing made mediocre by bad rock quality higher up. Start on vague, blocky climbing to the first bolt and enter an extended crux sequence. Surprisingly technical and quite good for the next 3-4 bolts, the route climbs through sloping shelves and even a flared finger jam. After another bolt or two of fun edges and pinches, the climbing abruptly changes to wallowing over steep, loose rock with many breakable 'holds', some large.

Location

This route is to the right of the .11a arete (The Torcher). Like that route, the top is marred by vague, stumbly climbing over increasingly loose rock; wearing a helmet while belaying is a good rule of thumb on the left side of the cliff.

Protection

Bolts (8-10) and fixed lowering hardware. Helmet for belayer and possibly climber.

Photos

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Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
If anyone knows the name and first conqueror of this route, feel free to provide them and I'll edit them into the description. Jun 20, 2017