PRINT: Rock Climb Restless in Paradise, Okanogan

Restless in Paradise

5.13c/d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: FFA Ben Gilkison, bolted in current form by Ryan Triplett
Washington > Okanogan > Mazama > Fire Wall

Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama Details

From the MVC:
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.

From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.

Description

This is the right of two extensions to Firestarter. Climb that route and head up and slightly right on steepening rock and large edges to a tough initial boulder problem. Try to shake out and then tackle the harder sequence above on the pocketed limestone-like headwall. Some will have to use vicious tiny pockets while others will have an easier time making a long reach to slightly better holds a few feet to the left. Either way culminates in powerful climbing through to the end. Easily the best route at the crag.

Location

The right of two extensions to Firestarter that goes slightly right and then straight up the steep headwall above.

Protection

Bolts (14 or so). Currently Firestarter is equipped with permadraws but you'll have to hang your own on Restless. One of the bolts on the lower crux of Restless was loose as of 2015 and probably hasn't yet been fixed. Anchors have lowering hardware.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

blakeherrington

The huge right hand pocket near the top is one of the coolest features on a sport route in the area. It's almost too bad that there are semi-decent edges to the side of the blue streak. Doing it OG (AKA Ben G) style via just those pockets would be fierce! Jul 20, 2017