Bastille Buttress - Papillon [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 15 pitches|
|FA:||Steve Schneider, Errett Allen, Gary Slate 1987|
|Page Views:||321 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Jun 19, 2017|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpagefs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description [Suggest Change]
AKA - Up Your Buttress. This original name was changed to "Papillon" for the Croft/Lewis Bishop Area Rock Climbs guidebook by one of the first ascentionists. A big outing - we all felt this route was a significant step up in difficulty and more time consuming than the Beckey route next door. Bring your best slab game and leave your fear of old 1/4" bolts at the door (they are actually quite solid). All of the bolted belay anchors are backed up with a newer 3/8" bolt. It would be easy to bail from top of P6. The crux P6 is a little funky - the FA party should have gone 10' right of where they did at the start. As is, you have to do a forced hard move to clip the second bolt, then reverse the hard move to follow the climbing line off right. The runout traverse on P7 is serious for both leader and follower. P9 has some physical & runout chimneying and the route joins Fred Beckey's line at the end of P10. 5 or so pitches up to 5.9 with an A0 move or 5.11+ boulder problem lead to the summit.
Location [Suggest Change]
See photo. Descend as per the Beckey route.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Doubles to 4". Maybe something in the 12" range for P9?