Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 15 pitches
FA: Steve Schneider, Errett Allen, Gary Slate 1987
Page Views: 438 total · 24/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jun 19, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

AKA - Up Your Buttress. This original name was changed to "Papillon" for the Croft/Lewis Bishop Area Rock Climbs guidebook by one of the first ascentionists. A big outing - we all felt this route was a significant step up in difficulty and more time consuming than the Beckey route next door. Bring your best slab game and leave your fear of old 1/4" bolts at the door (they are actually quite solid). All of the bolted belay anchors are backed up with a newer 3/8" bolt. It would be easy to bail from top of P6. The crux P6 is a little funky - the FA party should have gone 10' right of where they did at the start. As is, you have to do a forced hard move to clip the second bolt, then reverse the hard move to follow the climbing line off right. The runout traverse on P7 is serious for both leader and follower. P9 has some physical & runout chimneying and the route joins Fred Beckey's line at the end of P10. 5 or so pitches up to 5.9 with an A0 move or 5.11+ boulder problem lead to the summit.

Location

See photo. Descend as per the Beckey route.

Protection

Doubles to 4". Maybe something in the 12" range for P9?

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