Following the obvious, steep breach of the montain's north face, this is a steep line offering pleasant exposure, with sustained 60-65 degree snow/ice portions. It stands as one of the steepest couloirs in the High Sierra, save for Ice Nine and Mendel Right. Depending upon the snow year, a bottleneck of rock half way up may involve a few simple mixed moves to surmount. Upon reaching the top of the couloir, either take the 5.6 chimney to the summit. Or drop 40 feet to the other side and enjoy a somewhat exposed, but extremely well-protected, 3rd/4th class ramp (looks like 3rd class, but in mountaineering boots climbs like 4th class)
Not the most straightforward peak to get off of, but nevertheless, one that can be done at the 2nd/3rd class level via Treasure Col. From the summit, follow the east edge/cliff of Gilbert heading southeast toward the obvious lowpoint breeching the ridge. This breech point is Treasure Col. The descent down Treasure Col and down to the lakes of the same name is quite easy and without difficulty. It may involve some blocky 3rd class moves near the top. See the included photo in this album. Other descent options may exist.
Access is most direct from the Bishop Pass Trailhead at South Lake. Gilbert is visible from the trailhead, although assessing the couloir conditions will be difficult from here. Head south along the trail toward Treasure Lakes (not Long Lake). If camping, the most ideal place is Treasure Lakes given that the most obvious descent route is Treasure Col. The lakes are the highest elevation common denominator between Gilbert and Treasure Col.
Once at Treasure Lakes, ascend the cirque 0.5-1 mile west of the one which is directly overlooking the lakes. There may be faint use trails, probably a stream crossing, and a lot of 2nd class boulder hiking to ascend into the cirque. Once there and looking down the far end of the cirque, Gilbert is on climber’s left. Climber’s right is Thompson.
New Hampshire
Berkeley, CA
Idyllwild, CA