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Routes in Mt. Gilbert

North Couloir (Engram Couloir) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2
South East Slope T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Al Fowler, Dan Eaton, Ron Cale (1972)
Page Views: 346 total · 49/month
Shared By: Steve Papagiannis on Jun 18, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Following the obvious, steep breach of the montain's north face, this is a steep line offering pleasant exposure, with sustained 60-65 degree snow/ice portions. It stands as one of the steepest couloirs in the High Sierra, save for Ice Nine and Mendel Right. Depending upon the snow year, a bottleneck of rock half way up may involve a few simple mixed moves to surmount. Upon reaching the top of the couloir, either take the 5.6 chimney to the summit. Or drop 40 feet to the other side and enjoy a somewhat exposed, but extremely well-protected, class 4 ramp.

Protection

Singles up to #2, nuts, 1-2 pickets to manage rope around corners (if neve/Summer conditions), 8-12 ice screws (if climbing in Fall). Crampons, two ice tools.
Richard Shore
  5.6 AI2-3
Richard Shore  
  5.6 AI2-3
AI3 according to the Eastern Sierra Ice guide, but it seems like High Sierra alpine ice standards are a little soft compared to the equivalent grades on more vertical water-ice. Aug 31, 2017