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Routes in Hovedveggen

Shangri-la T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 1300 ft, 8 pitches
FA: '87 Fred Husøy & Olav Båsen.
Page Views: 52 total, 9/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Jun 16, 2017
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

Wow. Just fantastic slightly less than vertical granite grabbing. Nearly every pitch offers something unique and just plain old fun. This is the best multipitch route I have done in Norway.

P1. Clamber up awkward trees to a loose set of L-facing dihedrals before it eases out and you can move slightly left to below below a large left facing dihedral. 5.8

P2. Climb the dihedral (nice!) until it ends on a small grass ledge. Keep going up and slightly right until you are on a large grass ledge. Walk left until you can snug up into a groove with a small rf dihedral just to your right. 5.10-

P3. The meat. Climb the small rf dihedral (better to not place gear here, 5.6 ish, really) until you can move left up and towards a scrappy looking bulge. Place gear and runner until you get to the bulge, which protects with small cams and nuts. Don't take the mossy crack to the right through the bulge. Pull through and find yourself on a sloping ledge. Place some high rps and pull through again until you gain a short crack. There is a ledge to your left. Get there. It isn't easy. After you do it, climb up to the roof and place gear in the high crack so that your second has a nominal toprope. 5.11

P4. The dessert. Punch up the crack above until it peters out and forces a rightwards traverse. Meander up and right and back left until you get onto a large grassy ledge. 5.11-

P5. Necessary evil. Move straight up until you get to the treed ledge, then move hard right to belay at the left side of the big pillar. 5.7 - hard to protect for the second.

P6. Climb up behind the pillar and gain a crack on an arete of sorts. Follow this up to a large dihedral and a jammed block. Move left onto a big ledge then follow a left leaning crack to a small stance ~20ft below the roof. Pleasant 5.10.

P7. Just hard. Climb through that roof. There aren't any down-pulling holds above the roof so think through a different strategy before embarking. Can be easily french-freed. Continue up the very nice 5.10+ crack above to a small stance at the top of a dihedral. 5.11(+)

P8. A bit of creme brulee. Climb the scary face up and to the left. Maybe better to belay lower so the leader will get the belay gear for his piece instead of FF2ing onto the anchor. Get to a ledge, then move straight up, slightly left, and back right between some dirty crack systems. You'll have to work it out. 5.10+ (pg-13)

Location

Locate the left facing dihedral above some trees, and left of a long, low roof above the fixed ropes. You can see the grassy ledge on the top of second pitch from the road, so make sure you identify that. Otherwise you'll have to shoot blind.

Protection

Bring a double rack to #2. We had a #3 and #4 as well. Not entirely necessary, but helpful.

Photos

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