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Routes in Right End

Andromeda T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ben to the Stars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Holes Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gamma Ray Arete T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gemini T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Aliens T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
O'Ryan's Belt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quantum Entanglement T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starboard Tack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Starstruck T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: 2016
Page Views: 32 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 16, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Climb up initial slab at the large V-slot to reach the bottom of the first seam/crack in the bulge. Good gear can be had here, but it takes serious skill to get it. A strenuous, sequency stretch leads to a "Thank God" hold, followed by less-intensive, but still demanding climbing that gradually eases off as one ascends to the anchor.

Location

Look for the series of discontinuous seams starting at the lower bulge and running most of the way up the face, lying between the cracks of Starstruck and O'Ryan's Belt.

Protection

Cams to 2", with duplicates in the micro to small range. Offset wireds and Tri-Cams help, as well.
Be aware, that while bomber gear is possible along the entire way, it is not easy. Strenuous and devious placements are the norm on this route.

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