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Routes in 6.2 Fairy Tales

Aretes des Blocs Integrales TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baba Yaga TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Braid of Rapunzel TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Emperor's New Clothes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Faces des Blocs Integrales TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frog Prince, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glass Mountain TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldilocks TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goose Laid Golden Egg TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hansel and Gretel TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack and the Beanstalk TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Mermaid TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pied Piper TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Princess + Pea TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Riding Hood TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sorcerer's Apprentice TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steadfast Tin Soldier TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Little Pigs TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Thumbelina TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Ugly Duckling, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 31 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 16, 2017
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Lots of interesting face climbing, but one move much harder than the rest.

Start on right center face of the low wall (about five feet left of short vertical crack going up to right-facing corner capped by a little roof). Up that face (without using the crack to the left or crack to right) and up over the pancake rock.
. . (shared with the route Steadfast Tin Soldier).
Step across wide ledge onto stack, then up the bulge roughly straight to the top, finishing a bit left of the top of the left-trending diagonal ramp.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

At a low wall 10 feet high with pancake rock on top below a wide ledge which is below wide overhanging bulge.
. . (same as for Steadfast Tin Soldier).

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Fairy Tales sector.

Photos

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