The Ugly Duckling
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in 6.2 Fairy Tales
|Aretes des Blocs Integrales TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Baba Yaga TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Braid of Rapunzel TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Emperor's New Clothes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Faces des Blocs Integrales TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Frog Prince, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Glass Mountain TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Goldilocks TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Goose Laid Golden Egg TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hansel and Gretel TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Jack and the Beanstalk TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Little Mermaid TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pied Piper TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Princess + Pea TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Red Riding Hood TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Sorcerer's Apprentice TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Steadfast Tin Soldier TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Three Little Pigs TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a|
|Thumbelina TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Ugly Duckling, The TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||TR, 30 ft|
|FA:||TR Ken Roberts + JC Curcio|
|Page Views:||21 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jun 16, 2017|
DescriptionInteresting moves, and the variation is also worthwhile.
Up the right side of blocks to a wide ledge. Step across to base of a ramp going diagonal Left. Up the ramp, and a bit before its top step Right onto a platform. Up over another platform to the top.
Variation: When reach the wide platform ... (instead of going to base of ramp) step across to the face above, and see two lines of weakness (or wide irregular grooves perhaps with some corners). Roughly straight up the right line of weakness.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
LocationAt a low wall 8-10 feet high below a wide ledge which is to right from under the wide chimney with a roof.
- - > See on this Photo
ProtectionProtection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Fairy Tales sector.