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Routes in Morning Slab

Arete, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Clarion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Reveille/Aftermath T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 17 total, 3/month
Shared By: Sean Maher on Jun 15, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Technical, then airy climbing on Reveille leads up the open left-hand side of the Morning Slab. A winding line of balancey step-overs takes you past the right edge of the massive roof, then a final pitch of varied face climbing pops you out on the Downs. An undeservedly less popular route for the area, but it gets you away from the crowds. Note that this climb bypasses Lunch-time Ledge and tops out the Evening Wall.

P1) Climb up to an overlap on the left-hand side of a hanging nose feature. Make awkward moves over this, then trend up and right to the next bulge. With gear at your feet, make a tenuous step onto the lip. Continue ~20 m up the blank slab with hardly any pro to reach a 1-bolt and 2-piton belay below the right edge of the enormous roof.

P2) Traverse right ~5 m from the anchor to a fixed thread. Make a few steep moves, then traverse back left and pull up onto a smooth ramp that leads up to the right. Follow the ramp until you can easily climb up to a sapling belay on the left (carrot bolts).

P3) Follow boreholes to a vegetated top-out.

Location

Follow the path through the bushes toward the left side of the slab. Start to the left of a hanging nose-like feature on a steep bit of path.

Protection

Standard rack. Small-medium cams are useful at horizontal breaks.

Photos

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