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Routes in Malen's Wall

Arete Eh? S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bovine Inspiration T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burrglass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Called Out S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Called Out S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don't Look, Just Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall Brawl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gangrene T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanging Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
If your day ain't going right, go left S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Just a 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Just a 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lack of Patience S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Man of Patience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monday Blues, Forgotten Shoes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monday's Child S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Polish Warmup S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reg and Martin's Excellent 80's Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Lover Not a Fighter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 80 total, 16/month
Shared By: Helen L on Jun 15, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch #3 (final pitch) of an easy multi-pitch - good to practice. Big traverse directly left. When following, the fall could be like a lead fall - unclip after passing the bolt where possible, to minimize length of possible fall.

Protection

bolts

Description

Pitch #3 (final pitch) of an easy multi-pitch - good to practice.

Protection

bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Helen L
Toronto, Canada
 
Helen L   Toronto, Canada
 
(Update: This comment was originally in response to someone else's comment that it's not possible to do this route, but it appears they have now deleted it. Will leave it up in case the beta is useful)

Actually, I did it (and did traverse left) as part of a multipitch course with Leslie Timms (she is known to be one of the best climbers around here: leslietimms.ca). She also runs guiding company, On The Rocks: ontherocksclimbing.com/

I put in the links so people can check her credentials and contact her about your concerns or for more info, should you desire. She is the one who set these 2 top pitches, actually, and turned it into an easy multipitch in order to use it for teaching.

Although the traverse is rated at an easy grade, I did find the climb mentally scary, even as a follower, due to the possible traverse fall which would be a bit like a lead fall in this instance. Leslie suggested to move past the bolt before unclipping in order to lessen the length of the fall. My friend lead the route successfully. It is physically possible - just be aware of the possible traverse fall and manage accordingly; however, the route itself is not difficult (lots of holds for both hands and feet). Neither of us fell or had to take during this multipitch. Jul 4, 2017