Trad, 750 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.8 from 11
FA: Ryan Hoover, Michal Rynkiewicz, Derek Pearson, Chandler Davis
> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
> Diamond Area
Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks
Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2019. This includes climbs in the Black Sea area of the Upper Cheeks. The Perverse Traverse is open to reach the Beach area, but if any defensive behavior is observed, climbers should leave the surrounding area & report activity: email@example.com. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program this year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
A climb for the ages. Sabbra has everything from full pitch face splitters to blank slabs, cryptic face to beautiful corners. Linking this with Planet Caravan or Man in the Box on the Duck will be sure to not leave you wanting! The route dries very quick after the rain, there are 3 small seeps and can be climbed around without any issues. The route is climbable year round.
P1 5.6 : Climb the first pitch of Hell Bent for Glory.
P2 Most likely harder then 5.10+: Continue the first 15 ft of Hell Bent's 2nd pitch, break left at the bolt line. Bolts/Gear.
P3 5.11- : Above the belay, climb straight up to a traversing pitch of techy yet powerful climbing that leads to the base of the finger crack. Bolts/Gear
P4: 5.11- : Follow the long striking finger crack. Thin Gear
P5 5.10-: Start up the corner system and break right onto face climbing that leads to Eyelid Ledge. Bolts/Gear
P6 5.10+ : From the belay, follow a ramp and break through the left side of eyelid roof. Fun climbing on highly featured stone. One can skip the rap anchor and belay at the base of the corner on Lovely Lady Ledge. Bolts
P7 5.9 : Climb the corner. Break right at the roof and belay atop of the slab. Gear
P8 5.10 : Start up the overhung hand crack and pull the roof. Place small good cams and climb left into the face. Gear
Follow the tracks from town to the Lookout Point trail. Follow it all the way to the Rattletale wall rock gully. Continue up the gully up and left toward the Duck Wall. Skirt left along the base of the Duck Wall to the Diamond Gully. In winter this can be flowing water, but can still be climbed using the fixed lines (Fresh from Winter 2017). Continue up the gully until you hit a split at the base of the diamond. Head right at the junction and follow the trail up to an obvious splitter 40 feet past Centerfold.
Start on P1 of Hell Bent for Glory. Start up P2 of Hell Bent and immediately break left at the first bolt on P2. Straight up is Hell Bent for Glory's second pitch (5.10+).
To link with Planet Caravan, climb the fixed line at the top of Planet. Traverse left along the base of the small rock buttress and ascend a fixed line to the base of the Diamond.
Single Rack to 4”, doubles to .5, rack of nuts including RP’s, 12 draws (a few being alpine draws). Rappel the route with a single 70.
Sabbath Bloody Sabbath
Ryan on P4
The p4 finger crack! Photo: Scott Welch
Derek on P7
Diamond Boss Ryan Hoover putting in the second to last anchor on Sabbra Cadabra
Cam following p2
Joe on P3
Getting to Hell Bent Ledge
Green: Centerfold Red: Sabbra Cadabra White: Hell Bent for Glory Blue: Hell Bent for Leather
Michael on P5
Chandler on P3