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Sabbra Cadabra

5.11c, Trad, 750 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.8 from 11 votes
FA: Ryan Hoover, Michal Rynkiewicz, Derek Pearson, Chandler Davis
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Diamond Area > Diamond
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details


A climb for the ages. Sabbra has everything from full pitch face splitters to blank slabs, cryptic face to beautiful corners. Linking this with Planet Caravan or Man in the Box on the Duck will be sure to not leave you wanting! The route dries very quick after the rain, there are 3 small seeps and can be climbed around without any issues. The route is climbable year round.

P1 5.6 : Climb the first pitch of Hell Bent for Glory.

P2 Most likely harder then 5.10+: Continue the first 15 ft of Hell Bent's 2nd pitch, break left at the bolt line. Bolts/Gear.

P3 5.11- : Above the belay, climb straight up to a traversing pitch of techy yet powerful climbing that leads to the base of the finger crack. Bolts/Gear

P4: 5.11- : Follow the long striking finger crack. Thin Gear

P5 5.10-: Start up the corner system and break right onto face climbing that leads to Eyelid Ledge. Bolts/Gear

P6 5.10+ : From the belay, follow a ramp and break through the left side of eyelid roof. Fun climbing on highly featured stone. One can skip the rap anchor and belay at the base of the corner on Lovely Lady Ledge. Bolts

P7 5.9 : Climb the corner. Break right at the roof and belay atop of the slab. Gear

P8 5.10 : Start up the overhung hand crack and pull the roof. Place small good cams and climb left into the face. Gear


Follow the tracks from town to the Lookout Point trail. Follow it all the way to the Rattletale wall rock gully. Continue up the gully up and left toward the Duck Wall. Skirt left along the base of the Duck Wall to the Diamond Gully. In winter this can be flowing water, but can still be climbed using the fixed lines (Fresh from Winter 2017). Continue up the gully until you hit a split at the base of the diamond. Head right at the junction and follow the trail up to an obvious splitter 40 feet past Centerfold.

Start on P1 of Hell Bent for Glory. Start up P2 of Hell Bent and immediately break left at the first bolt on P2. Straight up is Hell Bent for Glory's second pitch (5.10+).

To link with Planet Caravan, climb the fixed line at the top of Planet. Traverse left along the base of the small rock buttress and ascend a fixed line to the base of the Diamond.


Single Rack to 4”, doubles to .5, rack of nuts including RP’s, 12 draws (a few being alpine draws). Rappel the route with a single 70.

Sabbath Bloody Sabbath

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ryan on P4
[Hide Photo] Ryan on P4
The p4 finger crack! Photo: Scott Welch
[Hide Photo] The p4 finger crack! Photo: Scott Welch
Derek on P7
[Hide Photo] Derek on P7
Diamond Boss Ryan Hoover putting in the second to last anchor on Sabbra Cadabra
[Hide Photo] Diamond Boss Ryan Hoover putting in the second to last anchor on Sabbra Cadabra
Cam following p2
[Hide Photo] Cam following p2
Joe on P3
[Hide Photo] Joe on P3
Getting to Hell Bent Ledge
[Hide Photo] Getting to Hell Bent Ledge
Green: Centerfold Red: Sabbra Cadabra White: Hell Bent for Glory Blue: Hell Bent for Leather
[Hide Photo] Green: Centerfold Red: Sabbra Cadabra White: Hell Bent for Glory Blue: Hell Bent for Leather
Michael on P5
[Hide Photo] Michael on P5
Chandler on P3
[Hide Photo] Chandler on P3

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Gilkison
[Hide Comment] Another fantastic contribution to Index--and a great reason to climb at the Diamond Wall. The closest I came to falling was on the 2nd pitch--ironically graded 10+, but that was probably a height thing, as slab climbing with limited feature style climbing seems to translate this way. my breakdown felt like this:
p1 - 5.7
p2 - 11b/c
p3 - 11a
p4 - 11b

...and the rest seemed spot on. Thank you FA team for all your hard work. I think P 3 and 4 really stand out for sure. The rock so grippy! Sep 16, 2017
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Agree with Ben's assessment. Stunning line with amazing climbing! May 13, 2018
[Hide Comment] Wow! Instant classic. Huge thanks to the crew for the vision and execution on this. Bolting and anchors are safe and well planned.

The climbing on pitches 2, 3 and 4 will test the 5.11- climber, especially given the low volume of chalked holds and cryptic sequences. Be ready for some thin and sometimes slightly tricky pro, but the whole route protects well and the bolting is generous. There are equal parts brain and braun, with some juggy cruising for the fun of it. Solidly more challenging than Hell Bent, but every bit as good or better. Highly recommended.

Suggested pro seems spot on. No need to double in the larger sizes. Jul 23, 2018
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
[Hide Comment] I third Ben's grade suggestions. P2 was the Crux of the route for us Dec 8, 2018
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
[Hide Comment] Jim Jam- thanks for the feedback. Grade updated! Dec 8, 2018