West Ridge
5.8 WI3+ M4 Steep Snow,
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 8000 ft (2424 m), Grade V,
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
FA: Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Mehbohm
Alaska
> Interior Alaska…
> Denali NP
> Mt Hunter
Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!
Details
Description
The West Ridge is a classic Alaskan route (Alaska Grade 4) that offers everything, rock, mixed, steep ice, cornices, crevasses, route finding, serac dangers, glacier travel etc. Make sure all your skills are on point the route is challenging. There is no easy way off of Mt. Hunter so keep that in mind for planning.
Location
From Kahiltna Base Camp approximately 3-4 hour ski down the glacier to the south. Once you pass Annie's Ridge the start will be visible as the West Ridge drops down to meet the Kahiltna. Go around the first rock buttress and up toward the icefall.
Descent:
#1 Familiar and dangerous. Retreat your steps rapping down what you climbed and climbing what you rapped.
#2 Not-Familiar and dangerous. Descend down to the top of the col that intersects The Ramen route.
Protection
Cams to 2"
4-6 Nuts
4-6 Ice Screws
2-3 Pickets
Cord to backup, replace or new rap anchors
Two technical tools per person
60m or 70m Rope
![Detailed beta for the west ridge as of May 2022. Note the differences found in certain parts of the route; notable the lack of the 3-4 pitch ice face avoce the second major col. View full resolution.]()
[Hide Photo] Detailed beta for the west ridge as of May 2022. Note the differences found in certain parts of the route; notable the lack of the 3-4 pitch ice face avoce the second major col. View full resolution.
![Looking down W Ridge somewhere well above rock band. Cat Ears visible lowest right portion of ridge.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking down W Ridge somewhere well above rock band. Cat Ears visible lowest right portion of ridge.
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