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Routes in Mt Hunter

Deprivation AI6 M6 R
Moonflower Buttress (Bibler/Klewin), The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 M6 A2 Steep Snow
Mt Hunter West Ridge via Northwest Basin WI3 Steep Snow
West Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI3+ M4 Steep Snow
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 8000 ft, Grade V
FA: Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Mehbohm
Page Views: 371 total · 44/month
Shared By: Chris Walden on Jun 14, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


The West Ridge is a classic Alaskan route (Alaska Grade 4) that offers everything, rock, mixed, steep ice, cornices, crevasses, route finding, serac dangers, glacier travel etc. Make sure all your skills are on point the route is challenging. There is no easy way off of Mt. Hunter so keep that in mind for planning.


From Kahiltna Base Camp approximately 3-4 hour ski down the glacier to the south. Once you pass Annie's Ridge the start will be visible as the West Ridge drops down to meet the Kahiltna. Go around the first rock buttress and up toward the icefall.

#1 Familiar and dangerous. Retreat your steps rapping down what you climbed and climbing what you rapped.
#2 Not-Familiar and dangerous. Descend down to the top of the col that intersects The Ramen route.


Cams to 2"
4-6 Nuts
4-6 Ice Screws
2-3 Pickets
Cord to backup, replace or new rap anchors
Two technical tools per person
60m or 70m Rope



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