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Routes in The Playground

Flying Circus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grunt Groove T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juvenile Chunk Head T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let There Be Jugs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
None Shall Pass TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penal Servitude TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty Python TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scoop, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six Pack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stegosaurus! T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Surfin' On Heroin TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Throne, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
V-Chimney, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 81 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Jun 13, 2017
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

Use the same start as V-Chimney, but stay right on the short, overhanging, blocky section that leads to a sizable ledge. You can also climb the vertical, left-facing section (at the start of the v-shaped chimney feature) to get to the ledge; this option offers better protection. From the ledge, tackle the widening crack that finishes as an off-width. There is a wedged flake within the middle section of the crack that offers some relief for one-handed gear placement. Exiting the off-width crack (i.e., the topout) is the crux.

Location

This ascends the upper, off-width crack at the inside corner to the (climber's) right of the distinguishable V-Chimney route.

Protection

Toprope from a tree anchor or protect with large gear (BD #5 for crux).

This is a pretty desperate & heady lead for the grade (with ledgefall potential).

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