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Routes in Meat Puppet Crag

Beelzebubba T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far Right Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Head Like a Hole T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Howlin' Yowlin' T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Meat Puppet T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undercover Lover T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 124 total · 17/month
Shared By: Aquamatt on Jun 13, 2017
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

The route starts at the far right end of the meat puppet crag, at the point where the roof is close enough to the ground that you can reach it. There is a potential boulder problem (which looks like it has been done before) on the underside of the start. You can either pull up and do some bouldery moves to begin the climb, or you can keep the grade at 5.7 by scrambling up a boulder on the right and traversing left on a good ledge for hands. Continue up straight, searching for good pro, until you hit the lichen and then decide how you want to get to the ledge with a small pine tree and some loose logs where you can build an anchor.

The more challenging part of this climb is within the first 20 feet, then it gets pretty easy and licheny. Easy to walk off or continue to the summit area from the top.

Location

Far right end of the meat puppet crag. Follow the path at the base of head like a hole right until just before the cliffs stop completely. You will walk underneath some very large and intimidating roofs. Look for a couple of good holds up high that you can pull on where the roof is low enough.

Protection

Lots of good gear. Bring a standard rack. Many options for anchors once the ledge is reached.

Photos

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
I appreciate the beta but this has almost certainly been climbed before. I would not name or claim a first ascent. Jun 14, 2017