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Routes in Brad's Boner

Brads Boner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Devine Line, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing but Fun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft, Grade V
FA: Mark Strege, 2010
Page Views: 68 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mark Orsag on Jun 13, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Three star climbing up an airy exposed two-handed arête. Fine rock with varied movement-- good hands, delicate feet, plus layback to mantle moves. Good clipping stances. Steady at the grade. I docked this a star for the unpleasant approach and the confusing situation with the start.

Location

This route is located on the SE-facing side of Sentinel Rock. Face the obvious route Brad's Boner that divides Sentinel Rock from Lost Arrow Spire. NBF is accessed by scrambling up a slick gulley well to the right of Brad's Boner and working your way around a small vertical, dripping moss band. Reach a platform by passing the miniature 5.12 TR /trad route Venom on the left. There is another set of anchors across the gulley to your right on a 35 ft. pyramid of black schist ( unknown 5.6 trad). Nothing but Fun is 5 ft. right (past) Venom on the left. The start is confusing as there are several variations. The bolted rib is probably the easiest start to spot, but this probably raises the grade into the 8+/9- range. A friction face and a chimney start keep the grade at a mellow 5.8 but cause you to skip a bolt or two off the ground (still not too scary). A bullet hard steep crimpy face with cool holds blends into the NBF bolt line from the uphill side of the formation but is harder (10-). This variant is high quality but shortens the climb and can't be easily accessed from the approach gulley. To confuse things even more, some bolts have been added it appears to the Original (Sentinel Rock) Route [originally 5.8PG 13) on the downhill side of the Sentinel formation, and this line too merges with the NBF arête bolt line from the left!

Protection

Bolts- 7-10 depending on the variation. Burr and Busse lists 9. Anchors at the top.

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