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Routes in Half Dome

Autobahn T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blondike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Deuceldike T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Eye in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Growing Up T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Snake Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Southwest Face, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Hoofers T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Aid, 2000 ft, 21 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Sean Jones
Page Views: 842 total, 135/month
Shared By: Ben Lepesant on Jun 13, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Location

There are two arches on the south face of Half Dome, Growing Up climbs the bigger one. It climbs the leftmost dihedral inside the arch, right next to the Harding route to its right. Further right is Southern Belle.

Approach

We approached from Lost Lake. We continued on the Snake Dike approach until you are a bit above the lake (maybe 5 minutes up from the stream that exits LL) and heading right towards a "forest" above the lake seems logical. Continue up and right, eventually slightly back up left to a ravine. There are cairns. Follow the cairns through the little bushy ravine up to the slabs and the base of the immense face. From here, head up and right. It's best close to the wall, but sometimes you have to veer right. From Lost Lake, this might take as long as two hours - the manzanita is thick, it is probably hot, and there are more ways to get lost than you'd think.

Two Germans, Tobias Wolf and Thomas Hering, who have repeated the route this year said they took water from the base of Southern Belle. As of early June, this had dried up. We found no other water spring or stream and had to get water from Lost Lake. An arduous operation. The Germans climbed the route over two days after fixing and rappelled the route, read about it here: kayakandclimb.blogspot.co.a…

If you know of a better approach, or any source/spring near the base, post up :-)

Gear

The rack in the book says 2 ea. from 00 TCU to 2.5" and 1 ea. 3 and 4"
I would recommend 2 00 C3, 3 ea from 0 C3 to 0.75 Camalot, 2 ea #1 and #2 Camalot and 1 ea. 3 and 4", unless you eat 5.12 corners for breakfast in which case triples are only needed to finger size.

About

This climb has to climb some of the best stone that there is. Its FA was done ground up until the bolt ladder, the rest was equipped from above. It is however not a sport climb, and also not "easy". Some of the dihedral pitches are stiffly graded and burly. It is accurately described by VI, 5.13a A0 (the same rating than the more sustained El Nino on El Cap has, for instance...) It has apparently been repeated at least twice, once by Wolf/Hering and at least once by Honnold. According to Katie Lambert, who has repeated the route to at least pitch 15 with Ben Ditto, it might be possible to free the A0 bits at 5.14.

Photos

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