PRINT: Rock Climb Full Sail, South Side Crags (CLOSED)

Full Sail

5.11d, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: Mark Stevenson 2008
In Progress > S Side Crags (C… > Brilliant Pebble (CLO…

Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED Details

7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.

Description

This currently overlooked route is awesome and deserves more traffic. What looks runout from below climbs very safely. The movement is engaging the whole way.

Stick clip the first bolt. Start on the boulder and climb straight up to the small roof. Figure out how to balance / tension / smear your way left (crux, may be slightly harder or height dependent) to the first good flake. Continue climbing up the sail-like features using mostly smears for feet, past a couple decent stances, until you reach a jug below the fourth bolt.

A hard pull up and left leaves you at a full rest stance, then easy runout on jugs brings you to the fifth bolt. Use the correct sequence of good holds up the flake to the last bolt and follow slightly sloping ledges to the drop-in anchor.

Location

On the wall behind Brilliant Pebble. To get there, walk up the hill to the left of Brilliant Pebble and turn left around the top of the huge tank-shaped boulder that sits just left of the Pebble. Walk straight across a rocky area for a few hundred feet, then trend right somewhat uphill toward the intersection of two walls with a huge roof. The trail leads directly to a large crack (Fat Crack and a Beer) on the right wall. Full Sail follows a series of sail-shaped flakes up the middle of the wall thirty feet to the left.

Protection

6 bolts, 2-bolt drop-in anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1. Full Sail (5.11c) 2008 2. More In, More Fun (5.10a) 2017

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

joseph ells
Las Vegas, NV

If your in the area I highly recommend this beautiful line. The beginning is very tricky. You will have to traverse left on the slab on some pretty bad feet and will need to use a right hand under cling side pull for your right hand make a big reach to a thin left hand under cling in the seam on the far left walk your feet through and smear you left of the the left side of the shallow dihedral cross with your right to bomb side pull and continue up the dihedral with thoughtful gastons side pulls crimps and a few nice flat jugs. this route i felt was just as hard as its neighbors Brownstar and Gray Goose but that can also a style preference, regardless get on it !! Oct 4, 2020

Erica Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

This thing is hard as nails! Definitely didn't feel like 5.11 to me. Burly, techy, and super fun! Definitely needs a little more traffic to clean it up a bit. Nov 23, 2020