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Slappy McCracken

5.10-, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 56 votes
FA: unknown
Ohio > Southwest Ohio > Mad River Gorge… > MRG Southeast (… > Amusement Wall

Description

Slappey McCracken was developed in May 2017 and is located on Amusement Wall. 

Location

Route is three left of Crazy Trailer Bitch on Amusement Wall

Protection

4 bolts to 2 chain anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side of Amusement Wall (now that tree by Slingshot has fallen)
[Hide Photo] Right side of Amusement Wall (now that tree by Slingshot has fallen)
Sparky, Slappy McCracken, Tastes Like Burning, Bangerang, CTB, Slingshot
[Hide Photo] Sparky, Slappy McCracken, Tastes Like Burning, Bangerang, CTB, Slingshot
Sloppy McCracken
[Hide Photo] Sloppy McCracken
Finishing the roof to the anchors. There was a good side pull with the right hand and left moved up into the crack. Feet can then move higher.
[Hide Photo] Finishing the roof to the anchors. There was a good side pull with the right hand and left moved up into the crack. Feet can then move higher.
Dave climbing up Slappy McCracken
[Hide Photo] Dave climbing up Slappy McCracken

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TheZiggurat
 
[Hide Comment] This route has 4 bolts to the chains. 10- rating is confusing but probably accurate as the start move is more like 10c/d climbing, followed by 5.8/9 climbing to a 5.10ish finish. Heady finish if you're short. Jun 13, 2017
Atticus Murphy
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] Warning! theres a loose chunk of rock that wobbles a little towards the middle of the route below the top overhung section, marked with chalk x's but its hard to tell Oct 1, 2017
JIm Wildenhaus
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Removed loose block from route. Apr 30, 2018
Courtney Curtner
Dayton, OH
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Jim, thanks for getting the loose block off the route! I know a lot of people were worried about that so they will be relieved it is no longer there. Apr 30, 2018
Stephen Mielnik
Lakewood
[Hide Comment] Anyone have beta for getting over the last bulge from the fourth bolt to the anchor? There is a good crack above the bulge to pull on, but I wasn't sure how to get my feet up. Left sad and defeated. Aug 6, 2018
DaveSwanson
Dayton, OH
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Yea, the top section is pretty tough. Getting my hands all the way to the jug past the anchors is the crux of the route for me. Lie back with both hands in the crack, then get a high foot, and move hands to jug. Jul 17, 2019
S C
Cleveland, OH
 
[Hide Comment] 30 feet Aug 10, 2020