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Fact or Friction
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m), Grade V |
FA: | Mark Strege, 2005 |
Page Views: | 673 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Mark Orsag on Jun 11, 2017 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This is a steep slab. Work your way cautiously up to bolt one through a dark schist band. Then, deal with a horizontal at bolt 2 that isn't as bad as it looks from the ground. Exit schist to the thin granite slab. Crystals are there, but are weirdly oriented and awkward to use. Traverse right, then traverse back left and angle left up a thin seam. When that begins to peter out, look for a darker gray incut (a bit hard to spot) up and a bit back right. It is a big move, but that hold is a surprisingly good crimp. Finish route easily from there. As the name suggests, lots of smearing on this one. A bit sequential, awkward and annoying even for a slab lover like me.
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