Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m), Grade V
FA: Mark Strege, 2005
Page Views: 673 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mark Orsag on Jun 11, 2017
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a steep slab. Work your way cautiously up to bolt one through a dark schist band. Then, deal with a horizontal at bolt 2 that isn't as bad as it looks from the ground. Exit schist to the thin granite slab. Crystals are there, but are weirdly oriented and awkward to use. Traverse right, then traverse back left and angle left up a thin seam. When that begins to peter out, look for a darker gray incut (a bit hard to spot) up and a bit back right. It is a big move, but that hold is a surprisingly good crimp. Finish route easily from there. As the name suggests, lots of smearing on this one. A bit sequential, awkward and annoying even for a slab lover like me.

Location Suggest change

This is the far left (East) route on the wall of the Outer Hall. This route has its own two-bolt anchor. All the rest of the routes (Little White Lies and the Guilty Conscience variations) on the Outer Hall wall go to one anchor on the other side (West) of the Outer Hall wall.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts/40ft so a bit sporty. Two bolt anchor at top/no chains. First bolt is somewhat high off the ground, but shouldn't be terrifying to get to... A fall from bolt 3 would be quite a bit of an unpleasant ride down a slab, but you wouldn't deck or hit anything major.

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