Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in 50 Footer
|Chocolate Party T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Colt 45 and Two Zig Zags TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crime against nature T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Malevlent Eye T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Standard route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Super Senior (aka Living the Dream) V2 5+ PG13|
|Wet Eyes TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||TR, 35 ft|
|Page Views:||57 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||farkas.time on Jun 9, 2017|
DescriptionThis is a forced eliminate of Malevolent Eye when it is wet, a rather common occurrence. It's a really nice choice even when ME is dry!
If ME is really wet, use left start to ME -- the center hold off the ground could be unusable. Use the first two holds of ME past the start (positive edges), then begin eliminate. First new hold is small dish adjacent to very good ME hold. Second is bad crimp out left with some crystals for friction. Third is horrible small sloper adjecent to next wet ME hold. Fourth is small but positive crimp out left. Then rejoin ME at large sloper below hand-sized horizontal. Leave ME again out left before rejoining in a few moves. Crimp ladder is exhausting and tenuous crux.
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