Anjaneri East Face Chimney
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Anjaneri
|Anjaneri East Face Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Anjaneri Navri T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Rohan Rao, Kaivalya Varma|
|Page Views:||52 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Rohan R Rao on Jun 8, 2017|
DescriptionRoute: 250 feet chimney, 2 pitch climb on the East face of the Northern flank of Anjaneri massif. Being on an East face, the chimney is in almost always in the shade any time after noon.
First pitch goes at 160 feet 5.7
Second pitch a 100 feet at 5.8/5.9
Pitch one: Approximately 160 feet (with a 70m rope one can comfortably add up another 25 feet to find a good ledge). There are plenty of possibilities along the way to build a good anchor station. I nearly ran out the length of the 60m rope to find a good ledge.
The first pitch is mostly a 5.5 climb with a couple of 5.7 moves thrown in the mix. The rock quality is better than the Sahyadri average, except for a few, which can be easily avoided.
The start at the base of the chimney can be wet and hence I started the first 10-15 feet on the face to the right and then traversed left into the chimney. If you decide to do the face, please note that the face moves cannot be protected and it is a no fall zone or else you are sure to hit the ledge. The face moves go at around 5.8
Once into the chimney, the climb is pretty straight forward over a couple of ledges for approximately 130 feet.
Belay station: The first belay ledge takes anything from a BD #2 onwards up to #5.
Pitch 2 is the money pitch of this climb. The second pitch starts as a wide chimney that narrows into an off-width above. The outer end of this chimney is too wide for straddling & bridging, unless you are a super-flexible gymnast!
It's difficult to protect the chimney here. I climbed the arete of the outer wall making up the chimney (some loose rocks attributable to constant wind erosion on the outer edge of this chimney) for about 20 feet. At around 20 feet I found a small horizontal crack that gobbled up a BD #.75 cam to my relief. Up till this point on the second pitch, the moves are unprotected, so a fall means certain decking. Once the chimney narrowed to my comfort levels, I moved into the chimney and bridged my way up for another 25 feet. Again, these moves are unprotected as the chimney is too wide to take anything.
At around 25 feet above the previous protection, I managed to place a Big Bro #4 – it was a bomber placement and a confidence booster.
The chimney narrows and tapers rapidly above this point – too narrow to even wriggle through. A seconding climber with a backpack cannot surely fit in.
The rock on the face / edge is very loose. It's better to stick to the chimney. Near the end of chimney, there is a firm chockstone that blocks the way. Protect the chockstone with a 120 cm long sling, pull on the crimps on the face and clear the chockstone overhead. This move – exiting the chimney and pulling over the chockstone bulging overhead – I think is a 5.9 move and the crux of the route. The exposure is magnificent while doing this maneuver. Once over the top of the chockstone, a short 3rd class scramble of around 15 feet takes you to the summit. A solitary tree serves as a good anchor.
Walk off towards the North end of the Anjaneri massif and descend over a flight of stairs to the base in around 45 minutes.