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Routes in Fourth Buttress

Ich Bin Ein Auslander S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pet Czech Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
SNAFU S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Craig Lewis
Page Views: 83 total · 7/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Jun 8, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description [Edit]

Great movement on face crimps, then glue-reinforced jugs out the roof. The climbing is wild and 4-stars. In spring 2017, it seems the route does not see much traffic and may need a brushing. 5.12a in the guidebook, I would say 12b is fair.

Stick-clip the first bolt (consider hanging the 2nd draw with a stick clip as well). Climb the dirty corner with some stemming to a series of crimps and sloping ledges that traverse left past the first bolt. Climb straight up on crimps and ledges (with a sweet under-cling move) to below the first roof.

From here, a well-planned series of reinforced jugs take you to a decent knee-bar rest on a flake below the second roof. Suss out a difficult sequence from the roof through an under-cling bulge to the last bolt. Follow jugs and avoid flakey rock to a stance at the anchors.

The rock on the face and the reinforced holds are solid. Some weak flakes exist and could be kicked off in the roofs. Consider a helmet and a strategic location (not under the climber) for the belayer.

Location [Edit]

Starts on the ground, just left of the leaning stack of boulders and heads up the left side of the large, high roof.

Protection [Edit]

8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.


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