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Routes in Fourth Buttress

Ich Bin Ein Auslander S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pet Czech Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
SNAFU S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Craig Lewis
Page Views: 49 total, 8/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Jun 8, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Great movement on face crimps, then glue-reinforced jugs out the roof. The climbing is wild and 4-stars. In spring 2017, it seems the route does not see much traffic and may need a brushing. 5.12a in the guidebook, I would say 12b is fair.

Stick-clip the first bolt (consider hanging the 2nd draw with a stick clip as well). Climb the dirty corner with some stemming to a series of crimps and sloping ledges that traverse left past the first bolt. Climb straight up on crimps and ledges (with a sweet under-cling move) to below the first roof.

From here, a well-planned series of reinforced jugs take you to a decent knee-bar rest on a flake below the second roof. Suss out a difficult sequence from the roof through an under-cling bulge to the last bolt. Follow jugs and avoid flakey rock to a stance at the anchors.

The rock on the face and the reinforced holds are solid. Some weak flakes exist and could be kicked off in the roofs. Consider a helmet and a strategic location (not under the climber) for the belayer.

Location

Starts on the ground, just left of the leaning stack of boulders and heads up the left side of the large, high roof.

Protection

8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

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