Type: Trad, TR, 1500 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 230 total · 13/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 8, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Lots of interesting climbing in a variety of situations (much on ridges), also with thoughtful navigation.

In the overall downhill direction (SE to NW), fits well into a "grand traverse" of the Calico Ridges S to N.
Or into a less-long ridge traverse from the 2nd Pull-Out parking: first hike/scramble up to "South Pass", next traverse Red Book Point summit and ridges from S to N to reach "Middle Pass", then SSE Ridge + SSE Groove to Calico Peak, and descend SE Gully and back to 2PO parking.

connections: This route starts from the "Middle Pass", which connects better with Calico Peak or 2nd Pull-Out parking. To connect with the Calico / Tank Pass (bypassing Calico Peak) or with Calico Basin parking to the SE (outside the Scenic Loop road), likely better to use the North Gully route.

From the "Middle Pass" (N36.1581 W115.4368), a little scramble up, then along the ridge crest about 325 feet SE to its end (N36.1573 W115.4360). Next turn Left (NE) across gully to get on the next ridge. About 160 ft SE along its crest to its SE end (N36.1570 W115.4355).

See big boulder near top of gully below. Traverse down around left, NE and E - and SE down into gully, then up gully SE to the big boulder. (or shorter is a delicate 5.6 downclimb from the end of the ridge to the boulder).
... (Not sure if details of next two paragraphs are accurate) ...
Over to the E side of boulder, and down the gully about 60 ft NW and exit Right onto a sub-ridge (or could continue another 60 ft down the gully, past another sub-ridge and exit Right onto a third more interesting sub-ridge).
. . . (or perhaps even more interesting climbing by continuing NW down to nearly bottom of the gully, but before reaching the sand flat, turn Right into another big and deep gully, and climb N up along its left side to nearly its top).

Scramble up the sub-ridge about 100 ft SE, then rising traverse scrambling about 75 ft E -- with a short steep slopy narrow gully / wide crack along the way -- to reach the side of the upper section a long wide gully. Cross the gully NE and make a left-rising traverse up its other side (N36.1571 W115.4350), onto a fin which forms the NW end of the main ridge of Red Book Point.

Finish by working SE up the ridge (trying to stay on or close to the crest of the ridge as much as possible) -- up and over several interesting protruding rocks or "gendarmes", with some class 5 sequences.
. . (but at least one "gendarme" cannot be crossed over).
Until reach the summit rock -> see Photo.

If know the West face route, that will likely be quickest and with less difficult climbing.

To return down the NorthWest Ridges route, see instructions for the second (north) half of the Red Book Ridge traverse route.

warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.


From the "Second Pull-Out" parking (N36.1518 W115.4374) on the Red River Scenic Loop road, hike about 300 ft N on trail descending, at junction sharp Right down 130 ft E into wash. Next about 300 ft N without obvious trail, along left (W) side of wash, and NNE 250ft downward into center of wash (N36.1549 W115.4365). Into long uphill with some scrambling sections and sometimes vegetation to avoid, 1000 ft N to reach the "Middle Pass" (N36.1581 W115.4368), with some nice shade.

From Calico Basin parking:
Middle Pass can also be reached from the SE, starting from parking in Calico Basin (outside the Scenic Loop road) -- but much longer, with a little higher difficulty and lots more quantity of scrambling/climbing ...
First up to the "Middle Sand Flat" (GPS lat long approx N36.1577 W115.4354).-.(elevation 4325 ft /1320m), then about 400 ft WNW in a narrow gully.

See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).


Protection for trad leading is unknown.

No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection.


- No Photos -