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Routes in b. Red Book Point
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North Gully + NW ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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NorthWest Ridges T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Red Book Ridges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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South gully+ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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SouthEast gully+face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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Walrus Gully T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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West side T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1500 ft (455 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,080 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 8, 2017 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Lots of interesting climbing in a variety of situations (much on ridges), also with thoughtful navigation.
In the overall downhill direction (SE to NW), fits well into a "grand traverse" of the Calico Ridges S to N.
Or into a less-long ridge traverse from the 2nd Pull-Out parking: first hike/scramble up to Stairmaster Pass, next traverse Red Book Point summit and ridges from S to N to reach Frostie Shack Pass, then SSE Ridge + SSE Groove to Calico Peak, and descend SE Gully and back to 2PO parking.
connections: This route starts from the "Middle Pass", which connects better with Calico Peak or 2nd Pull-Out parking. To connect with the Calico / Tank Pass (bypassing Calico Peak) or with Calico Basin parking to the SE (outside the Scenic Loop road), likely better to use the North Gully route.
route:
From the Frostie Shack Pass (N36.1581 W115.4368), a little scramble up, then along the ridge crest about 325 feet SE to its end (N36.1573 W115.4360). Next turn Left (NE) across gully to get on the next ridge. About 160 ft SE along its crest to its SE end (N36.1570 W115.4355).
See big boulder near top of gully below. Traverse down around left, NE and E - and SE down into gully, then up gully SE to the big boulder. (or shorter is a delicate 5.6 downclimb from the end of the ridge to the boulder).
... (Not sure if details of next two paragraphs are accurate) ...
Over to the E side of boulder, and down the gully about 60 ft NW and exit Right onto a sub-ridge (or could continue another 60 ft down the gully, past another sub-ridge and exit Right onto a third more interesting sub-ridge).
. . . (or perhaps even more interesting climbing by continuing NW down to nearly bottom of the gully, but before reaching the sand flat, turn Right into another big and deep gully, and climb N up along its left side to nearly its top).
Scramble up the sub-ridge about 100 ft SE, then rising traverse scrambling about 75 ft E -- with a short steep slopy narrow gully / wide crack along the way -- to reach the side of the upper section a long wide gully. Cross the gully NE and make a left-rising traverse up its other side (N36.1571 W115.4350), onto a fin which forms the NW end of the main ridge of Red Book Point.
Finish by working SE up the ridge (trying to stay on or close to the crest of the ridge as much as possible) -- up and over several interesting protruding rocks or "gendarmes", with some class 5 sequences.
. . (but at least one "gendarme" cannot be crossed over).
Until reach the summit rock -> see Photo.
descent:
If know the West face route, that will likely be quickest and with less difficult climbing.
Or if can find the top of the Walrus Gully route.
To return down the NorthWest Ridges route, see instructions for the second (north) half of the Red Book Ridge traverse route.
warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.
In the overall downhill direction (SE to NW), fits well into a "grand traverse" of the Calico Ridges S to N.
Or into a less-long ridge traverse from the 2nd Pull-Out parking: first hike/scramble up to Stairmaster Pass, next traverse Red Book Point summit and ridges from S to N to reach Frostie Shack Pass, then SSE Ridge + SSE Groove to Calico Peak, and descend SE Gully and back to 2PO parking.
connections: This route starts from the "Middle Pass", which connects better with Calico Peak or 2nd Pull-Out parking. To connect with the Calico / Tank Pass (bypassing Calico Peak) or with Calico Basin parking to the SE (outside the Scenic Loop road), likely better to use the North Gully route.
route:
From the Frostie Shack Pass (N36.1581 W115.4368), a little scramble up, then along the ridge crest about 325 feet SE to its end (N36.1573 W115.4360). Next turn Left (NE) across gully to get on the next ridge. About 160 ft SE along its crest to its SE end (N36.1570 W115.4355).
See big boulder near top of gully below. Traverse down around left, NE and E - and SE down into gully, then up gully SE to the big boulder. (or shorter is a delicate 5.6 downclimb from the end of the ridge to the boulder).
... (Not sure if details of next two paragraphs are accurate) ...
Over to the E side of boulder, and down the gully about 60 ft NW and exit Right onto a sub-ridge (or could continue another 60 ft down the gully, past another sub-ridge and exit Right onto a third more interesting sub-ridge).
. . . (or perhaps even more interesting climbing by continuing NW down to nearly bottom of the gully, but before reaching the sand flat, turn Right into another big and deep gully, and climb N up along its left side to nearly its top).
Scramble up the sub-ridge about 100 ft SE, then rising traverse scrambling about 75 ft E -- with a short steep slopy narrow gully / wide crack along the way -- to reach the side of the upper section a long wide gully. Cross the gully NE and make a left-rising traverse up its other side (N36.1571 W115.4350), onto a fin which forms the NW end of the main ridge of Red Book Point.
Finish by working SE up the ridge (trying to stay on or close to the crest of the ridge as much as possible) -- up and over several interesting protruding rocks or "gendarmes", with some class 5 sequences.
. . (but at least one "gendarme" cannot be crossed over).
Until reach the summit rock -> see Photo.
descent:
If know the West face route, that will likely be quickest and with less difficult climbing.
Or if can find the top of the Walrus Gully route.
To return down the NorthWest Ridges route, see instructions for the second (north) half of the Red Book Ridge traverse route.
warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.
Location
From the "Second Pull-Out" parking (N36.1518 W115.4374) on the Red River Scenic Loop road, hike about 300 ft N on trail descending, at junction sharp Right down 130 ft E into wash. Next about 300 ft N without obvious trail, along left (W) side of wash, and NNE 250ft downward into center of wash (N36.1549 W115.4365). Into long uphill with some scrambling sections and sometimes vegetation to avoid, 1000 ft N to reach Frostie Shack Pass (N36.1581 W115.4368), and stop inside for a refreshing drink (but bring your own ice).
From Calico Basin parking:
Frostie Shack Pass can also be reached from the SE, starting from parking in Calico Basin (outside the Scenic Loop road) -- but much longer, with a little higher difficulty and lots more quantity of scrambling/climbing ...
First up to the "Middle Sand Flat" (GPS lat long approx N36.1577 W115.4354).-.(elevation 4325 ft /1320m), then about 400 ft WNW in a narrow gully.
See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).
From Calico Basin parking:
Frostie Shack Pass can also be reached from the SE, starting from parking in Calico Basin (outside the Scenic Loop road) -- but much longer, with a little higher difficulty and lots more quantity of scrambling/climbing ...
First up to the "Middle Sand Flat" (GPS lat long approx N36.1577 W115.4354).-.(elevation 4325 ft /1320m), then about 400 ft WNW in a narrow gully.
See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).
Photos
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