NorthWest Ridge direct
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2300 ft|
|Page Views:||55 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jun 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionLots of interesting climbing and navigation if try to stay close to the ridge crest and climb as many of the high point nubs (like ten of them?) along the way. What I mean by the "direct" NW Ridge.
Some people (likely correct) have said there's an easier way ("indirect") to traverse between Red Cap and Tank Peak. I suspect this goes mostly along (below) the left (NE) side of the ridge. Hope someone will give more details in the Comments to this page -- or post that as a separate NW Ridge "indirect" route.
The main navigational problem is to get down from the summit of Red Cap, then up onto the ridge connecting Red Cap to Tank Peak. The obstacle is a chasm on the SE side of the summit cap. Turns out to be complicated ...
Walk to the W side of the summit cap, then NW down a short vertical groove / chimney - thoughtful sequence (5.3). Next walk past small "tank" pond (tinaja) and around the N + NE side of the cap, then scramble down SE (5th class with some exposure) into chasm. Next up SW about 45 feet to high point of chasm -- now roughly ENE from Red Cap summit around (N36.1661 W115.4425).
Next continue over this high point and down the other side about 40 feet SE + E. Turn Right and down 130 ft generally S into another gully, then exit left and traverse ESE into another gully and about 25 feet SE down this to its bottom (N36.1658 W115.4421). Next a bit south, then east to get on the crest of the ridge at around (N36.1654 W115.4418).
Continue 1800 ft (0.35 mile) generally SouthEast along the ridge, trying to climb up over as many high-point nubs as possible (could be 10? depends on how you count) - staying close to the crest as much as possible and finding interesting climbing moves (several 5.4 segments, can also find some 5.6 and harder). Where "direct" progress seems blocked, usually it's easiest to bypass them below on the left (NE) side of the ridge.
Easier to descent the SSW face (or WSW face?) of Tank Peak, then return to Sandstone Quarry parking by the maintained Calico Tanks trail.
LocationThe logical well-defined starting point for the NW Ridge is the summit of Red Cap.
The simplest way to reach that is the North Gully route. But likely one of the West side routes on Red Cap would provide a way to reach the NW ridge of Tank Peak quicker and closer to Tank Peak.
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